that the supply was small and the price outrageous.
We had left the securing of the boxes and the packing
of the busts to our plaster-worker, and, though we
knew he had had difficulty, imagined that he had secured
all needed, and that the busts would be all ready.
Diligent search, however, had secured but two boxes,
and ridiculous prices had been demanded for those.
All of us took to the streets, visiting stores and
private houses, and at last five boxes were secured,
though they were a dilapidated lot, with bad covers.
For these we paid an average of sixty-two cents each.
Realizing the time and labor necessary for securing
boxes, stuff for packing, and for the work of putting
up the busts, we dismissed our horsemen, and arranged
for leaving the next morning. In fact, night had
fallen before our work was done. Leaving a little
before eight, we had a magnificent mountain ride.
For a league or more, we rose steadily over a cart-road;
keeping at a high altitude, and, with but little of
ups and downs, we journeyed through fine pine forests,
with oaks mingled, here and there, among the pines.
We met quantities of Chamula and Tenejapa indians on
their way to market. The Chamulas carried chairs,
loads of well-tanned skins, and sacks full of little,
round wooden boxes, well and neatly made, while the
Tenejapes were loaded with nets of oranges, limas,
and ahuacates. We were sorry to leave
the village of Chamula to one side, but lack of time
forbade our visiting it. It was amusing to note
the terror of our arriero on the road.
Until we passed Cancuc, he was constantly expecting
attack from the dreadful indians of Chamula, Tenejapa,
and Cancuc, telling us that such attacks might be expected
at any time, but particularly in the early morning
and in the dusk of evening. What indians we met
were most gentle, and answered our salutations with
apparent kindness. After a long journey on the
high, smooth road, we finally began descending into
a pretty valley, and soon saw the great town of Tenejapa,
below us, on a space almost as level as a floor, neatly
laid out, and still decked with the arches erected
for a recent fiesta. The agente of the
town had been warned of our coming, by telephone from
the jefatura, and received us warmly, a little
before one o’clock, giving us a large and comfortable
room in the municipal building, supplied with chairs
and benches, and a table, though without beds or mats.
We were here delayed by the slowness of the old man,
who had been furnished at San Cristobal for carrying
our instruments. By three o’clock, all
was ready, and the twenty-five women were summoned.
They gave no kind of trouble, and by six o’clock
the work was done. Women here braid their hair
in two braids, which are wrapped about closely with
cords, making them look like red ropes; these are
then wound around the head and picturesquely fastened.
The huipils of cotton are short, and decorated
with scattered designs, worked in color, and loosely