with woolen girdles.  They wear broad-brimmed, low-crowned hats, of their own braiding, which they adorn with long, streaming, red and green ribbons.  Their sandals are supplied with heel-guards of black leather, the height of which indicates the wealth or consequence of the wearer.  These indians of Chamula have a love of liberty and desire for independence.  The most serious outbreak of recent times was theirs in 1868, when, under the influence of the young woman, Checheb, they attempted to restore the native government, the indian life, and the old-time religion.  Temples were erected to the ancient gods, whose inspired priestess the young woman claimed to be; but three hundred years of Christianity had accustomed them to the idea of a Christ crucified; an indian Christ was necessary, not one from the hated invading race; accordingly, a little indian lad, the nephew of the priestess, was crucified, to become a saviour for their race.  Their plans involved the killing of every white and mestizo in all the country; in reality, more than one hundred men, women, and children, in the fincas and little towns, were killed; San Cristobal, then the capital city, suffered a veritable panic, and it took the entire force of the whole state to restore order.

[Illustration:  TZOTZILS; HUIXTAN]

[Illustration:  TZOTZIL WOMAN; CHAMULA]

The Tzendals of Tenejapa are picturesque in the extreme.  Their dark skin, their long black hair, completely covering and concealing the ears, their coarse features, and the black and white striped chamaras of wool—­which they buy from the weavers of Chamula—­form a striking combination.  They do but little weaving, their chief industry being the raising and selling of fruits.  Most of the men carry a little sack, netted from strong fibre, slung at one side.  Among other trifling possessions in it, is generally a little gourd filled with a green powder, which they call mai, or pelico.  It consists chiefly of tobacco, with a mixture of lime and chili, and is chewed, no doubt, for stimulating properties—­to remove the weariness of the road, and “to strengthen the teeth,” as some say.

When we had exhausted the stock of those who came to pay their taxes, it was suggested that we would find good subjects in the jail.  This occupied what was once a fine old convent, built around a large open court, and connected with the church, which, judging from its elaborately carved facade, must have been beautiful.  On presenting our credentials to the officials, an order was given, and all the pure-blood indians, one hundred at least, were lined up before us for inspection.  There were Tzotzils from Chamula, and Tzendals from Tenejapa, and among them many excellent faces, showing the pure types, finely developed.  Having made our inspection, and indicated those whom we should use, we looked about the prison.  The prisoners were housed in the old rooms of the monastery,