and in our driver’s guessing at distances, were curiously emphasized.  We had a rather heavy descent, for some distance, over a limestone hill called Santo Domingo.  Nowhere do I know of any road which, under the best of circumstances, seems as long as the last stretch before Tuxtla Gutierrez.  This we had noticed on our earlier journey, when we were mounted on horseback.  Present conditions were not likely to diminish the impression.  At last, at 11:30 in the morning of March 12, we reached the capital city of the State of Chiapas, and were taken by our carretero to the little old Hotel Mexico, kept by Paco, where we met a hearty welcome and, for several days, made up for the hardships of our journey in the way of eating.

CHAPTER XXIV

AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ

(1901)

We knew that Governor Pimentel was not at home, having met him in Coalzacoalcos, where we had presented our official letters, and had received from him a communication to his Lieutenant-Governor, Lopez.  Having spent the afternoon in settling and cleaning, I called in the evening upon Governor Lopez and explained my needs.  After chatting a little time together, he inquired whether I had not made the steamboat journey from Coalzacoalcos to Vera Cruz in March, 1896, and, upon my answering in the affirmative, told me that we had been fellow-travellers on that occasion.  He promised that there should be no delay, and made an appointment with me for the morning.  I then called on Don Conrado Palacios, who lived directly opposite our little tavern, and who claimed that he recognized me the moment I dismounted from our cart this morning.  He is still photographer, but for three years of the time since last we met has been living in the State of Vera Cruz, and but lately returned to Tuxtla.  In the morning, Governor Lopez supplied the letters for my further journey, and summoned the jefe politico and the presidente of the city and gave them personal orders that they were to assist, in every way, my work at Tuxtla, among the Zoques.  The jefe himself took charge of my arrangements, put his office at my disposition for a workshop, and the work began at once.  Contrary to my usual experience, we had less difficulty in securing female subjects here than male.  The male indians of Tuxtla are, in large part, employed in contract labor on fincas at a distance from the town.  According to their contract, they are not subject to the order of local authorities, and may not be summoned without permission of their employers, or a pecuniary settlement with them.  The first day, more than half the women were measured, and the second day, the rest.  As is well known the women of Tehuantepec are famous for their beauty.  It is not so well known that rivalry exists between them and the women of Tuxtla in this matter.  This rivalry had been called to our attention on our preceding