The view, however, in front of the house is uninterrupted,
and looks off into a narrow valley, bounded prettily
by hills. The house has a wide brick-paved corridor.
Near it was an interesting ancient stone carving.
The rock was coarsely crystalline, and gray, or olive-gray
in color. It had been battered into the bold,
simple outline of a frog, crouched for leaping; the
head had an almost human face, with a single central
tooth projecting from the lower jaw. The work
was in low relief, and looked as if the ancient workman
had taken a natural boulder, and beaten with his hammer-stone
only sufficiently to bring out the details. The
stone measured perhaps four feet in length, three
feet in breadth, and two feet in thickness. It
was found in the mountains near, and, from the marks
upon it, seems to have been embedded in the soil half
way up the legs. Probably, when first made, it
was placed so that the feet were even with the ground
surface, but the accumulation of vegetable soil since
has been considerable. The Hacienda of Macuilapa
manufactures sugar and raises indigo, quantities of
the seed of which were being cleaned when I was there.
The owner of the place is a man of means, but the meals
served were of a mean and frugal kind. Everyone
made dire prophecies about the time of possible arrival
of my companions, and the period necessary for our
further journey to Tuxtla Gutierrez. I had not
expected my companions before seven, and after these
dismal forebodings, gave up that expectation.
To my surprise, they appeared, in good health and
spirits, at five o’clock, though with exciting
tales of peril and suffering. After a meal together,
we again mounted in the old fashion, and were on our
way. The air was fresh and cool, and at 9:30 the
moon rose, giving perfect light. The road was
high and sandy, with occasional small ascents and
descents. At eleven we stopped to rest, I agreeing
to wake them all at midnight; at one o’clock
I was awakened by our carretero raising the
tongue of the wagon! We passed La Razon at three.
As one of the oxen, which had been somewhat lame, was
now in bad condition, we all dismounted, half-a-league
before we reached Zapote, and walked the rest of the
way. The Hacienda of Zapote is really almost
a town. There are two fincas, belonging
to two brothers. Their fine large houses, the
out-buildings, and the clusters of adobe huts for the
workmen, make an imposing appearance. We stopped
at the first group of buildings, which stands a little
lower than the other. Arriving at six, we spent
the whole day at this place; the meals at the great
house were excellent and cheap. In the afternoon
we heard marimba-playing; the instrument was called
la golondrina and cost the owner forty-three
pesos.
[Illustration: A DAY REST; THE CARIZAL]
[Illustration: MARIMBA-PLAYING; HACIENDA DE ZAPOTE]