just about to reach the place, where it was planned
to repack for the last time; it was just daylight,
and Eustasio was congratulating us upon our prompt
arrival; we drove to the brink of a dry stream, on
the other side of which was our resting-place; just
at that instant, we heard the other driver cry out;
we stopped, and found that the baggage-cart was overturned.
This dashed all hopes. There was unhitching,
unloading, the making of a new axle, and reloading.
It was plain that we could not reach La Frontera.
While the men were putting things to rights, we strolled
up the dry stream-bed to a shanty, where Eustasio
told us we could breakfast. There was a well there,
with fresh water, and the shanty, for the refreshment
of travellers, consisted of nothing but a little shelter
of poles. Here, however, we found baked tortillas,
atole, and hard meat; the breakfast for four persons,
cost twenty-five centavos, equal to ten cents American
money. Through the day, birds were hunted and
skinned, reading and writing carried on, until at
half-past-three in the afternoon we were again ready
for movement. The road was now sandy, and not
dusty, the sand being produced by the decomposition
of crystalline rocks. Mounting to a high llano,
we shot a pair of curious birds, which looked like
water-birds, but were living in a dry place and were
able to run with great speed. They were of the
size of a hen, and had a long beak, long legs and four
flat though not webbed toes. At the end of this
high llano, we passed the Hacienda of Agua
Blanca, a property belonging to the jefe of
Juchitan. From here, we descended rapidly over
a poor road, coming out at nine onto the straight
road from Tapanatepec, at this point four leagues
behind us. From here on, the whole road was familiar
to me. La Frontera was just ahead, and, arriving
there at 10 o’clock, we spent an hour.
Before us rose a massive mountain, the ascent of which
seemed appalling. We could see a white line of
road zigzagging up its side, and well remembered Governor
Leon’s pride in having constructed a cart-road
against great natural difficulties. Thirty or
forty ox-teams had gathered here, either ready to
make the ascent, or resting, after having come down
the mountain. Having gotten breath and courage,
we started at about eleven. The road had suffered
during the five years since I last passed over it,
but was still an excellent work of engineering.
As we mounted, zigzagging constantly, the magnificent
view over the valley widened; each new turn increased
its beauty. My companions were asleep, and had
had so little rest recently, that I hated to disturb
them for the view. When, however, we were two-thirds
up the slope, they awakened, and were as delighted
as myself. We all got out, and walked for a considerable
distance. An astonishing number of little streams
and pools of fresh water burst forth from the rocks,
and cut across the road or flowed along its sides.
Finally, we reached the summit, and began the descent.