latter generally carrying babies in indian fashion—of
horses and other animals. As works of art, they
make no pretension, but they are stained with native
colors, and are used as gifts at New Year’s
by the common people. Here we saw the making of
baked
tortillas, and sampled some hot from the
oven. Such
tortillas are called
tortillas
del horno—oven
tortillas.
Flat
tortillas, about the size of a fruit-plate,
are fashioned in the usual way; a great
olla
is sunk in the ground until its mouth is level with
the surface. This is kept covered by a
comal,
or a smaller
olla, and a good hot fire of coals
is kept burning within. When the
tortillas
have been shaped, they are stuck on the hot
olla,
being pressed against the sides, to which they adhere,
and are left to bake. In baking, the edges curl
up so that the cake, instead of being flat, is saucer-shaped.
They are crisp and good. Leaving at four, we
continued on the hot, deep, dusty road, but saw interesting
plants and animals along the way. There were
fine displays of the parasitic fig, from examples where
the parasite was just beginning to embrace its victim,
through cases where it had surrounded the tree with
a fine network of its own material, to those where
the original tree-trunk was entirely imbedded in the
great continuous gray investing trunk of the parasite,
now larger than its host. Some trees bore bunches
of pale-purple flowers of tubular form, which fell
easily from the calyx, and dotted the ground along
the roadside. Other trees appeared as if covered
with veils of little purplish-red flowers hung over
them. Others were a mass of golden bloom, the
flowers being about the size of cherry blossoms.
A few trees, yet leafless, showed large, brilliant
white flowers at the tips of rather slender branches.
At Ixhuatlan, we saw the first monkey’s comb
of the trip. This orange-yellow flower, growing
in clusters so curiously shaped as to suggest the
name, is among the most characteristic, from this
point on through Chiapas into Guatemala. There
were but few birds, but among them were macaws and
toucans. Eustasio said that in the season, when
certain berry-bearing trees are in full fruit, the
latter may be seen by hundreds.
When night had really fallen, I unwisely sat in front
with the driver, to prevent his sleeping, and to keep
the animals moving. Both drivers had a way of
dozing off, utterly regardless of the movements of
the animals or the dangers of the road. Carts
going in opposite directions must often depend absolutely
upon the oxen for their chance of escaping collisions
or being thrown over precipices. Frequently the
animals themselves stop, and the whole company is
at a standstill until the driver wakes up. In
this jornada, we had planned to reach La Frontera,
the border of the state of Chiapas, at which place
we had been promised we should arrive at 8:30 in the
morning. Everything had gone well, and we were