Don Leandro, the secretario, had promised to accompany us the following morning as far as San Geronimo.  We had decided to go on horseback to Paso Real, a little distance beyond San Geronimo, and there take boat for Tampico.  When morning came, we expressed surprise over Don Leandro’s charging rent, in addition to the rather large price which we had already paid for beds.  This seemed to hurt his sensitive feelings, with the result that we started without his company.  The ride was monotonous, over a road which made few ascents or descents, and presented little of variety or interest.  Little green hills bordered the road on either side, and on many of them were ranch-houses, some of rather good construction.  In a little stream over which we passed, we saw a great idol’s head, of stone, a foot or more across, and well made.  San Geronimo we found to be the comfortable country-house of the alcalde of Tamalin and all the ranches among which we had made our journey.  It was a fine old place, with high airy rooms, good verandas, and an old-fashioned tile roof.  Our journey had been hot, and we found a fine breeze blowing through the house.  The alcalde knew all about our errand and was ready to be helpful.  He was a tall, slender, mild-mannered and polite mestizo.  After we had eaten, he rode with us to Paso Real to arrange about a boat and point out various objects of interest on the way. Chapapote, from which chewing gum is made, is an important product here, and among those interested in it as a business is an American dentist.  We saw many birds, among which doves were conspicuous; the alcalde says that six or eight species occur here, the different kinds singing at different seasons; one of them had a peculiarly sad and mournful song, and is heard in the early morning.  Another bird, the primavera, seems to be like our mockingbird, imitating the notes and cries of many other birds and animals.  At two places we passed black lines of foraging ants, and he told us that insects, frogs, toads, and even snakes, encountered by these lines, are helpless, being promptly overcome and devoured.  Arrived at Paso Real, the alcalde arranged for our boat.  He told us that loaded boats require three days for making the journey to Tampico, but that ours, being empty, would probably go through in twenty-four hours.  The boat he arranged for had been partly loaded, but its owner had agreed to unload in order to receive us.  As a favor to him, we consented to permit five or six not large boxes to go along.  Having ordered supper for us at the house upon the summit from which the road descended to Paso Real, the alcalde left us.  Supper was slow, but at last was over.  Our baggage had already been carried to the boat, and we strolled down to take our passage.  Less room was left for us than we had expected the boxes would leave, but it was dark and we raised no question.  We waited an impatient hour for our canoemen to take their supper, being almost