Very early in the morning, all the town officials, except the presidente, came to apologize for the occurrence of the night.  They announced that the presidente, realizing what he had done, had taken to the mountains, and asked what they could do for us.  We ordered fodder for our hungry beasts, food for ourselves, and a place of shelter.  The town-house was offered to us, and we were moved into those quarters with due ceremony.

Although we stayed several days at Juquila, the presidente did not return, during our presence, to resume his duties of office.  We were, however, well treated.  The cura aided us with advice, information, and helpers.  While we were in the village the danza de la Conquista took place.  It is a popular play, with much dancing and music, and little action or dialogue, which celebrates the Conquest of Mexico by Cortez.  It was rendered in the shade of a great tree near the church.  In the first act, nine men and two girls took part; in the second act, there were many others.  The nine men and two girls represented Indians; they wore crowns with plumes of snow-white down; in their hands they carried a rattle, made from the fruit of a tree and a wand of white down, with which they beat time.  One man, representing Montezuma, had a crown of brilliantly colored plumes.  The other eight men were warriors; the two girls were “Malinches.”  The first act consisted of a series of dances, including a very pretty maypole dance.  The play lasted about three hours, and represented the life of the indians before the Conquest—­Montezuma in his court, with the amusements celebrated for his entertainment.  Hearing of the arrival of the Spaniards, he is filled with sad forebodings, which the amusements fail to dispel.  In the second act, Hernando Cortez appears, with soldiers.  While the costumes of the indians were gay, and more or less attractive, those of these European warriors were ludicrously mongrel and unbecoming.  The new-comers demanded that Montezuma acknowledge the authority of the King of Spain and the cross of Christ.  Conversations, demands, replies, tableaus, sword-dances, etc., ensued.  Finally, Montezuma and his warriors yielded, and kissed the crucifix.

[Illustration:  ROAD APPROACHING QUEZALTEPEC]

While this drama was being enacted under the shade-tree, another amusement, in connection with the fiesta of San Marcos, was in progress in front of the church.  The musicians with the long horns made doleful music; a dozen gayly-costumed dancers took part.  They wore dark trousers slitted up the sides; bright kerchiefs, with the point hanging down in front, were tied about the waists; crowns of plumes were on the heads; red vests and kerchiefs, crossed at the neck, completed the costume.  One player, who seemed to be a leader, carried a tri-colored flag; another represented a man on horseback, by creeping into a frame of sticks, covered with cloth, in the