cut at the edges; a cresting, thin, but evenly placed
and firmly pegged down, projects over the ridge, down
either slope, and its edges form the only break in
the smooth surface. Many of the houses had temascals,
differing considerably from those of Puebla and Tlaxcala.
They are rectangular; the walls are built of poles,
set upright, close together, and strengthened by being
lashed to a horizontal timber set midway of their
height. The roof is a round vault or arch of
poles set lengthwise. The whole is neatly plastered
over with a mixture of mud and chopped straw, and
in the front a cross is worked in the clay mixture,
to insure good fortune. The women here wove cotton
in the usual indian fashion, but few wore the old dress,
and those few were mostly aged. We noticed quantities
of pottery here, and throughout the Huaxteca, but
none of it is local in manufacture. Most of it
has come from the two towns, Huejutla, an Aztec town,
and Panuco. We were forced to spend a third night
at Tamalin. The secretario had been at
home for two days and had fairly done his duty; still,
our animals were late when we were ready to start
the following morning, and we were not off until 9:30.
It was a steady climb, over a long series of ascents,
until we reached a crest from which Tancoco could be
seen. We made a long descent and then a little
upward climb to the town, which is notable for its
cleanliness and the industry and cleanness of its
inhabitants. The town is situated upon a little
hill, from which one looks out on a sea of green forests,
with little rocky hillocks covered with trees rising
from it, here and there, like wooded islands.
Between us and Tamalin rose a semi-circle of ridges,
sweeping from us off to the left and forward in the
distance. In front, near the top of this curve
of ridges, two leagues distant, lay Amatlan, clear
and impressive, from this point. Riding up to
the little town-house, which had a portico enclosed
by a neat railing and supplied with pine benches, we
dismounted, and, with some doubt as to its reception,
presented our old letter. The secretario
was an intelligent mestizo from Tuxpan.
He sent at once for the alcalde, who was a
good-natured, little Huaxtec, of pure blood, thoroughly
dependent upon his subordinate officer. We were
promised everything. The schoolhouse, remarkably
clean, was put at our disposal, and a messenger was
sent to notify an old woman named Guadelupe that she
was to prepare our meals. Before four o’clock,
work was under way, and during the two days that we
remained, there were no difficulties. The houses
of the town are somewhat like those of Tamalin, but
less well built. The single industry is the weaving
of hats from palm. On the house-roofs, and on
the ground before the houses, palm was drying.
Some of the work was extremely delicate, and the four
grades of hats sell for from four pesos upward.
Men, women and children are all occupied in the manufacture,