coming.  Here, too, we found that there were no Huaxtecs, the town being, so far as it was indian, purely Aztec.  We decided, therefore, to try Tancoco, returning, if need be, to Gutierrez.  Both Gutierrez and Tancoco were in the district of Tuxpan.  Fortunately, we still carried our last year’s letter from the governor of Vera Cruz to serve us with the local authorities, as it would be most inconvenient to go to Tuxpan for orders.  Seeing that it was impossible to leave that day, I walked in the afternoon to Tantima to visit the priest.  Between the two towns rises a fine, high rock hill.  The ascent from Tamalin was in three slopes, with short levels between; the crest was but a few yards wide; the descent to Tantima was abrupt and short.  From the summit we looked down upon the pretty, level, enclosed valley occupied by a rather regular town, built about a large plaza which, the day being a market day, was gay with booths and people.  I met almost the whole population of Tamalin on my way over, as they returned from market.  All the men were drunk; some were so helpless that they sprawled upon the road, while others were being helped by their more sober comrades.  I reached the plaza just thirty-seven minutes after leaving Tamalin, and at once telegraphed to Ozuluama about the baggage.  When I inquired for the priest’s house, the telegraph operator informed me that the padre had told him all about us and our errand and that he would accompany me to the curato.  Crossing the square, we found the padre living in a comfortable place, close by the great, pretentious, stone church.  We were warmly welcomed, and orders were at once given for coffee.  The Aztec servant hastened to bring some, piping hot, and was quite abashed at being sharply reproved for offering it directly to me.  No, indeed, a gentlemen so distinguished was not to be thus served; the table was moved up before my chair, a clean cloth spread, sweet cakes were sent for, a glass of fresh milk placed, and then the coffee was set upon the table.  Thus, in solitary grandeur, I sat and ate and drank, while the priest and operator took their cups of coffee in their hands.  Though we had ordered horses for the following morning, the baggage had not come, and we waited all the day.  Strolling around the village, we found it a pretty place, through which ran a fine stream, separating the houses into groups or clusters.  It is a true Aztec town, and the houses are well-constructed.  Several houses are set irregularly within a single enclosure; the walls are built of poles set upright, but these are so heavily daubed with a mixture of mud and chopped straw that they are strong and durable.  In applying this daub, the hand is used, and a simple block of wood of rectangular form, with a projecting edge extending midway of the upper side, is used as a trowel for spreading it, and giving it a smooth finish.  The thatchings are thick, and project far beyond the walls; they are of palm, and neatly