descend, and out of which we had to climb. Most
of these were actually dry, but many of them contained
a dirty pool of stagnant water. At many places,
the road was bordered with plants, the leaves of which
somewhat resembled those of the pineapple. They
were light green in color, narrow and long-pointed
at the upper end, and spiny along the sides.
This plant, named
guamara, bears spikes of yellow
fruits which are pointed at the upper end, but in
color, size, texture, structure and taste reminded
us of podophyllum, though it leaves a prickly sensation
in the mouth, much like that produced by fresh pineapples.
There were also many trees bearing little limes or
lemons, of which we gathered abundance for making
lemonade. At two o’clock our man pointed
out a ranch-house near the road, in front of which
two men sat eating, and told us we could procure food
and drink there if we wished, and that we had plenty
of time for stopping. We found the men at the
table to be the parish priest of Tantima and his servant.
The priest informed us that Tamalin was three and
three-fourths leagues away, while Tantima was four.
The road for the greater part of the distance to the
two places was the same. We had an interesting
conversation with the good priest, and for the first
time we met the curious prejudice, which exists throughout
this portion of the Huaxteca, against the Huaxtecs,
and in favor of the Aztecs. We were kept waiting
some little time for our dinner, but by three o’clock
were again upon our way. Just as we started,
we crossed the first true stream which we had met,
but during the balance of the journey we crossed one
or two others. Soon, leaving the main road, we
bore off to the left, and found several bad spots of
stiff black mud, into which our poor animals sank frightfully.
After five o’clock we saw, from the slope on
which we were, for we had left the
llano and
were again in rolling country, a little village, and
higher and further to the left, a second. The
first of these was Gutierrez Zamora, which is Huaxtec,
with a few Mexican families living at one side; the
second was our destination, Tamalin. We passed
through Gutierrez at six, and reached Tamalin at seven.
The alcalde of the village was not there; in
fact, we suspect that he but rarely is. The secretario,
likewise, was absent. We finally prevailed upon
his brother to help us to find an indian girl to cook
our meals, and a room in the secretario’s
house. In this room there was but a single bed
and our helper thought me very particular in demanding
that petates should be brought as beds for my
companions. He assured us that, when he traveled,
he slept upon the floor, without petates.
It was long after 10 o’clock before we had supper
and secured a resting-place. We had planned to
push out from here the following morning; no sign,
however, of our baggage had appeared, and we were
forced to spend two days at Tamalin waiting for its