stuff into his boat, that we ourselves embarked, and started down the little lagoon in his canoe.  So long as we remained in this narrow, sheltered stream, all was well; but when he poled from its mouth out to the open river, we found it a different matter.  More than this, we saw two or three canoes dancing over the white caps, and managed with great difficulty, although not loaded.  The courage of our boatman was a little dashed; he suggested that we leave Ramon, Louis, and Manuel on an old scow standing on the bank and fast going to ruin, while he poled myself and the luggage over, after which he would return for my companions.  This seemed good sense, and the boys were left behind.  It was interesting to see the skill with which the man handled our rather awkward craft, loaded at it was almost to the water’s edge.  He had no motive power but his long pole.  We did not ship a single drop of water, and at last entered the quiet, broad, canal-like lagoon on the other side of the river.  A moment more, and we were unloading our luggage onto the shore.  To do this, we were forced to wade through mud up to the knees.  But at last all was safe, and with his empty canoe, our boatman started merrily back for his other passengers.  When they arrived, only a few minutes were necessary for reloading the canoe, and we started up the lagoon.  Little side lagoons opened frequently into the one through which we passed.  At their mouths were V-shaped weirs of stakes, driven into the bottom and wattled together with flexible twigs.  These were open at the mouth, and in the openings were set dip-nets, which could be lowered into the water.  Just now, with the heavy norther blowing, thousands of camaron (shrimps) were driven into the nets, and at each one we saw fishermen busily occupied.  The lagoon abounded in water-birds of many kinds, and hardly had we entered it, when Louis shot a pretty, small white heron.

Believing that the owner of animals to whom we had been referred was demanding too high a price for his horses and mules, we decided to see what the town authorities would do for us, and went to the municipio.  The presidente told us, with delight, that the jefe politico of Ozuluama was there with his family, rusticating, and at once summoned him to meet us.  He was a gentlemanly fellow, who told us that the price demanded was regular, but advised us to travel in a different way.  “Here,” he said, “you can get a large canoe; starting now, you can travel all night; reaching La Llave in the early morning, you can get horses and go the seven leagues remaining comfortably.  Take a little something to eat before you start, and carry something for the way.”  This seemed an opportunity for a new experience, and, though the price was little, if any, less than we were asked to pay for animals, we decided to try it.  Arrangements were begun at once, breakfast ordered, and a light lunch prepared for carrying.  Meantime, the jefe told us