ten inches long and three inches in diameter; these are hollowed out below, so that two thin lips only are left above, which, when struck, give out far more musical tones than one might expect.  The two nights that we were at Huehuetla, we saw men and women fishing in the stream; carrying blazing torches in their left hands, they waded out into the water and watched to see the dark bodies of the fish against the pebbly bottom of the stream; in the right hand they carried a machete, about a foot in length, with which they stabbed the fish, rarely missing.

We were now ready for the last tribe of the season, the Totonacs of Pantepec.  Pantepec is in the district of Huachinango, and we had no order from the jefe; Don Valentino, the presidente of Huehuetla, said, however, that the presidente of Pantepec was his friend, and that he would give us a letter of introduction, which would serve all purposes.  As we were to return by Huehuetla, we left the busts which we had made, and all but our most necessary baggage, at Don Pablo’s house.  Though we started at ten, we took the journey slowly, photographing and hunting birds.  The road was a trail in a ravine, with all the beautiful scenery with which we now were so familiar.  At one point we saw a curious phenomenon.  The cliff rose vertically from the water’s edge, at a place where the stream made a right angle; this cliff consisted of almost horizontal strata of varying hardness, so that some of the layers were worn a little more than others, leaving these projecting.  In the space between these projecting layers, round river-pebbles, from the size of hen’s eggs up to the size of a man’s fist, were firmly wedged, so that it was with difficulty that they could be dislodged.  Not a few, but hundreds of the pebbles, were thus wedged, so regularly and firmly that we could not believe the work to be that of nature, but suspected human hands.  We learned, however, that nature really had done the work, on the occasion of a flood, the result of a cloud-burst, which swept into the valley two or three years before.  At several places in this stream, we saw groups of from two or three to ten or twelve Totonac indians, who were fishing with little nets.  Our trail led back and forth across this stream many times, and before we reached Pantepec we had made thirty-nine crossings.  From our last crossing, we climbed a steep ascent, passing the little village of Tenasco, and found ourselves at Pantepec.  We rode at once to the town-house, and were told that the presidente was sleeping; we went then to his house, where we were informed that he could not be disturbed.  We left word that we must see him as soon as possible, and that he would find us at the municipio.  Nearly three hours passed before he put in his appearance.  Inasmuch as we had seen this man’s jefe, and he knew our errand, we told the secretario to send a message for us to him at Huachinango.