the promised dinner, but at half-past-one climbed
up a steep hill, in the rear of the town-house, to
the home of the presidente’s father,
where a very elaborate meal had been prepared, with
wine and luxuries. All payment was refused, and,
after we had rested and refreshed ourselves, we left
at half-past-two. The road was long; it followed
the side of a great gorge, into which it descended
abruptly; in this gorge we saw magnificent vegetation.
The trees were heavily hung with long vines and ferns;
parasitic fig trees, hugging victims whose life sap
they were stealing, were abundant. The country
was of limestone. On the whole, the road was good,
but, here and there, were patches where we traveled
over sharp and jagged out-croppings of rock, and near
Huehuetla we were forced to make some stiff climbs
up the cliff sides. Flocks of parrots were numerous,
especially toward evening. The stream was a handsome
one, with clear, deep water; we crossed and recrossed
many times. The foot-paths rarely crossed, being
cut sometimes, as a narrow trail, in the rock of the
cliff. Noticeable were numerous silvery lines
of water falling over the cliff, several of which
must have been hundreds of feet in height; these little
threads of water were impregnated with lime, and deposited
material in a sheet upon the bank over which they
flowed, so that trails of brown tufa marked their
location; the lower ends of these deposits expanded
into fan-like masses of tufa, over which the water
trickled, dripped or fell. Where there was not
sufficient water to produce a stream and fall, but
enough to keep the tufa moist, the growth of ferns,
and other delicate vegetation, was brilliant and striking.
We passed a number of coffee and sugar ranches on
the road. It was dark long before we reached Huehuetla,
and had it not been for the moonlight struggling through
the clouds, we should have had difficulty in traveling
the last portion of the road. At 7:35 we arrived,
and went at once to the large and handsome house of
Don Pablo himself, where we were expected, and where
an elaborate supper was being made ready. The
largest room in the house was put at our disposal and
good beds and cots, beautifully clean and carefully
made, were ready. Formerly, Don Pablo was the
presidente of the town. His successor was
at the house to meet us, within five minutes after
our arrival, and took supper with us. It is needless
to say that in this town we met with no delays in
our work. To our surprise, we found a fellow countryman,
a civil engineer named Culin, from Philadelphia, who
has done and is doing much work for the pueblos of
this region.