giving
aguardiente and candles, both of which
appeared, as if by magic, when she was given money.
Pouring
aguardiente from the bottle into a
glass, she poured into the four basins in the ground
before the altar, before the Virgin, before and behind
the heaps of ashes under the table, and then placed
it to the lips of the Virgin and Christ, lovingly
requesting them to partake. She then compelled
each of the three men priests to make the same libation.
Taking the unlighted candles, she made passes with
them, over and across the figures, first to one side
and then to the other, brushing the wicks against them.
This, too, had to be done by the three assistants,
after which the old lady began to make vigorous personal
use of the bottle of spirits, though she was not at
all selfish, urging, not only her acolytes, but the
presidente, his brother, and the chief guest,
to partake. It was too late to suggest a visit
to the idols, but the curious scene we had witnessed
gave sufficient food for thought. Hurrying back
to Tlacuilotepec, we ate a last excellent dinner,
which had been long waiting, and at three left for
Pahuatlan. Our host, who had been unremitting
in his attention, refused all money. At certain
indian houses which we passed upon our homeward way,
we saw curious pouches made of armadillo-shells, hanging
upon posts or on the house walls. We learned
that they were used at planting-time for holding seed-corn.
When the shell is freshly removed from the animal,
it is bent into the required shape, and then packed
full with wet ashes, to make it retain its form in
drying. Though it was half-past three when we
left, the way was so cool and delightful that we made
the journey in three hours.
During our day at Pahuatlan, with a guide furnished
by the presidente, I made the journey on foot
to Atla, an Aztec town, famous for the little cotton
sacks with red wool patterns, which are almost universally
carried by men throughout this district. White
cotones, with narrow, dark stripes and a transverse
band of red decoration at each end, and white quichiquemils,
decorated with brilliant designs in red wool, are
also made here. Our object was not so much to
see the village and the garments, as to visit a famous
witch’s cave, situated in the noble pinnacle
of rock, plainly visible from Pahuatlan. The whole
party started out from Pahuatlan, but at the bottom
of the great slope, I left my companions to swim,
while the guide and I, crossing a pretty covered bridge,
scarcely high enough for a man of my height wearing
a sombrero, went on. It was a long climb
to the village, but, when we reached there, my mozo
with great glee called my attention to bruheria
directly at the side of the church. In front of
the building, to the right of the door as one enters,
is a hole in the ground, into which a few large stones
have been clumsily thrown or laid. Here chickens,
flowers, eggs, etc., are buried, in order to secure