This district, in one respect, reminded us of the Tarascan country.  Every house along the road was a sales-place, where drinks, cigarettes, fruit and bread were offered, and each had the little boarded window, open when sales were solicited, and closed when business stopped.  The houses, too, were log structures with shingled four-pitched roofs, and the houses in the town were well built, cement-walled, with low-sloped, far projecting tile roofs supported on trimmed beams.  One might as well have been in Patzcuaro, Uruapan, or Chilchota.  Again the cochero; we had told him that the stuff should go to the jefatura, and not to the hotel; he told us with great insolence that the jefatura was closed, and that it would be impossible to see the jefe and that the stuff would remain at the hotel; he followed us, when we went to the jefe’s house, and great was his surprise when he found our order efficacious.  We had a long talk with the jefe, who told us that few indians lived in the town, and that none of them were Totonacs; he assured us that, though there were no Totonacs in Huachinango, we could find them in abundance at Pahuatlan, to which he recommended us to go.  The nearest indian town to Huachinango is Chiconcuauhtla, but it is Aztec.  The next day was spent in town, waiting for our other baggage, and for the jefe to arrange our orders and lay out our journey.  My day of fever was on, and I spent it mostly in bed.  There were many indians in the market, most of whom were Aztecs, though a few were Otomis.  The men wore dark brown or black cotones; the enaguas of the women were wool and were dark blue or black.  Many carried on their shoulders carry-pouches, consisting of two rectangular frames of sticks, corded together along the lower side, and kept from opening too widely, above, by a net of cords at the ends.  The indians of Chiconcuauhtla are easily recognized by their little flat, round caps.  Late in the afternoon the bands of maskers, here called the huehuetes, were out.  There were a dozen of them, dressed in absurd costumes; a bewhiskered Englishman in loud clothing, a gentleman, a clown, a lady, etc.  These all went, by twos, on horseback; a clown and a devil and a boy with a prod, on foot, accompanied them.  The duty of the latter, who remotely resembled death, was to prod the unhappy devil.  They were accompanied by noisy crowds the several times they made the rounds of the town, keeping up the peculiar trilling, which we had noticed at Tulancingo.  At dusk, these maskers dismounted and promenaded in couples about the plaza.