until the operation was performed.  So much feeling had been raised by the matter, that his foolish friend, to whose jocularity he owed the unpleasant experience, thought best himself to be measured.  Accordingly measures were taken, although it was after dark, and a candle had to be used in reading.  As our day’s work was done, we returned to our room, making ready to go to supper.  The crowd had departed.  To our surprise, we found these foolish fellows at our door awaiting us.  “Sir,” they said, “we would speak with you a moment.”  Going aside with them, I asked their wishes.  They then launched out, with weeping and groans and much wringing of hands, into a dreary tale.  They were young teachers waiting for appointment; one of them had a little family; it would be a dreadful thing for them to be taken away and forced into the army.  It was impossible to convince them that there was no harm in the matter.  After long discussion and elaborate explanations, they cheered up somewhat, but insisted that I must go to the house of one of them, the one who had given trouble, to take pulque.  We went, three abreast, each one of them taking one of my brazitos queridos—­“beloved little arms;” as we went, they alternately indulged in admiring exclamations—­“Ah, Severo, what a maestro! how fine a gentleman! how amiable!  Say Manuelito, was there ever such a one.”  At the house, which was neat and clean, I met the mother and two little ones, who would be left behind in case Severo were forced to go into the army.  Then the pulque was brought in and sampled.  As I was leaving to go to supper, they said, no, I must go to my room; they would accompany me.  In vain I reminded them that my companions were waiting for me at the eating-place; I must be seen back to my very door, then I might go where I pleased; but with them I had gone forth, and until they saw me home again, they would be responsible for my person.

Coixtlahuaca itself is largely a mestizo town.  But immediately in its neighborhood, and on its outskirts, are indian villages.  All Chochos know Spanish, and but few talk their own language.  There is little of interest in their life and nothing characteristic in their dress, which is that of mestizos in general.  But the physical type is well defined.  The stature is small; the face is short and broad; the nose is wide and flat, with a fat, flattened tip; the hair is somewhat inclined to curl, especially on top behind.

Despairing of the promised trip through the villages, we issued orders for our animals to be ready early one morning.  Only after vigorous complaints and threats were they actually ready.  The owner of the beast which I, myself, mounted went with us on foot, and a mozo was supplied for carrying instruments.  In spite of fair promises that we would leave at three, it was 4:40 before we started, though we had risen at half-past-two.  Our arriero was the best we ever had; far from sparing his good