and the colors are a beautiful combination of flame-red
with chrome-yellow. The other day only the outer
and lower flowers of the racemes were blown, but on
this occasion the whole cluster was in bloom.
We noticed strikingly, what had before suggested itself
to us, that through this district flowers of certain
colors mass themselves together. Thus, on this
slope, the hundreds of bunches of flame-colored orchids
were rivalled by clusters of a tubular flower perhaps
an inch in length, of almost the same hues. Along
the glen-road near Tepanapa all sorts of flowers seemed
to be pink or flesh-colored, while along the jungle-bank,
near the coffee plantation, everything was blue or
purple. When we reached Zautla, neither the presidente,
the secretario nor the segundo was in
town. The big topil, whose head was healing,
did the honors of the place. We had intended
to make an early start, but it was half past six before
we mounted and were on our way. Going back over
the old road, we soon reached the little coffee finca
in charge of our Mixtec friend, and here we left the
familiar trail, for what our guide insisted was a
better one. We struck up and up and up the slope
to avoid little ravines which he assured us were very
bad. At last, when it was certain that he had
completely lost his way, we started down into the forest.
For a time we followed a bad and disused trail, but
soon even this disappeared, and we tore our way through
the tropical vegetation as best we could. Often
the men had to cut the way with their machetes;
sometimes we slid for yards over the wet mud; frequently
our heads were caught by hanging vines, and faces
and hands were scratched with brambles. When at
last we came out upon a cleared space, we found ourselves
at the Chinantec village of Santa Maria. Perhaps
there were four houses in the village. Our appearance
caused great excitement. Our pack-animals bade
fair to destroy the maize and other plantings in the
field. In the trail were oxen, which had to be
gotten out of our way for fear of being driven to
frenzy by our mere passing. They assured us that
we were on the road to Tepanapa, so we completed the
descent to the brooklet and started up a trail which
at any time would have been steep, stony, slippery,
all at once. We were compelled, finally, to dismount
and lead our animals; Frank, before he did so, tumbled
his horse three times down the bank. At one place
two of the horses fell together in a struggling mass,
and for a moment things looked serious. All the
animals but my own fell, at least once, before we
reached the summit. From there, it was an easy
ride over a level district until we were in sight of
Tepanapa, which, by sunlight, presented a most attractive
appearance. The houses are spread over a gentle
slope, to the very edge of a little barranca.
Each had a little enclosure, with a group of banana
plants. Butterflies of brilliant hues lazily
flew about, and a few birds uttered their characteristic