of the mist, and soon had a fire built and a candle lighted.  In vain we urged our mozo to hunt for food.  He said that all the houses were empty, and, if perchance one were occupied, no one would turn out so late to supply us.  All were extremely hungry, as we had eaten nothing since morning except a tortilla or two with some eggs as we rode along.  Manuel, Louis and Frank slept in the loft, Ramon and I upon the floor below.  The two mozos with the saddles slept in the other hut.  The night was cold and the damp air penetrating.  We arose early to go upon our way, but unfortunately yielded to the request of Louis and Ramon, permitting them to go in search of food.  Two full hours passed before they returned with a few tortillas and two eggs; so that it was half-past-eight when finally we started.

[Illustration:  SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]

The road was slippery and muddy, descending constantly; a large portion of the way was through woods:  at the bottom of the slope we found ourselves by a fine brook, which we forded.  Then began an ascent as precipitous, slippery and unpleasant.  The trail followed the bank of the stream.  Passing through a dense jungle of vegetation, where the air was hot and wet, the flora was characteristic.  Trees with large, coarse, broad pods enclosing two or three great seeds, trees with acorn-shaped red fruits, quantities of sensitive plants covered with pink flowers, occasional orchids bearing flowers of brilliant flame color, and vines with lovely blue pea-flowers made up the bulk of the tangled growth through which we passed.  At two places we crossed pretty streams, with cascades and narrow gorges, opening on to the gorge along the sides of which we were travelling; where these streams crossed our trail there were great masses of caladiums with their leaves of green velvet.  We passed two little coffee plantations, the first of which was sadly neglected and overgrown with weeds, the second neatly kept.  From this we rose again, and having gained the summit, looked down upon the village of San Juan Zautla.

Riding to the town-house, we met the presidente and secretario, the latter an intelligent fellow, who told us that the town was dwindling, numbering at present but 80 contribuentes.  He ordered a capital dinner for us of chicken, fried bananas, eggs, frijoles, tortillas and coffee.  Though the secretario was intelligent, the presidente was otherwise.  He was good-natured, but a fool.  With pride he frequently remarked, “yo soy presidente” (I am president).  Then he whispered and mumbled, kissed my hand, assumed an air of great intelligence, and walked off with a peculiar tottering movement.  These performances took place not once or twice, but every time the official made his appearance.  Having fed us, the secretario disappeared, and did no more for us.  While waiting for him, our attention was attracted by a curious