I am never alone.”  Isidro knows all the boundaries of the fields, and can trace all the titles, and is frequently appealed to in land disputes, and even in law cases, is summoned to give testimony.  He received us heartily, offered cigarettes and ordered supper.  To refresh us, he broke fresh leaves from the orange-tree and steeped them in hot water, sweetening with sugar.  After supper, good beds were made upon the floor, with plenty of mats and blankets.

We had hardly risen in the morning, when the village was thrown into great excitement by the appearance of a band of soldiers.  They had come to arrest a young man supposed to be a leader in the local opposition to Governor Cahuantzi.  This opposition was just at fever heat; the election was approaching, and a fierce effort was being made to oust the governor.  Forty-four towns were in open rebellion, among them, all of those which we had visited.  There had been new laws passed regarding land and taxes; these had been resisted.  The governor had threatened to send engineers to make new surveys, and to bring land-titles into question.  The suspicion and distrust which we had met were doubtless, in large part, due to these measures, and the fear that we were government spies.  So great was the discontent, and so openly expressed, that it was said that on the Saturday preceding, in the Plaza of Tlaxcala itself, there was a riot, with cries of derision and contempt, and firing of guns upon the palace.  We were told that the nearest haciendero, who was friendly to the governor, was marked for assassination and would be killed within the next few days.

Leaving at ten next morning, we skirted Santa Ana, and, having passed through San Pablo, came out upon the banks of the Sawapa.  This pretty stream has reputed remedial power, and in May hundreds of people bathe in its waters, to protect themselves against small-pox.  As we crossed the great stone bridge, we met a drunken indian who attached himself to our party.  Between him and the Mexican members of our party, there arose hostility and an exchange of angry words.  To us, personally, he was maudlinly affectionate and respectful.  Finally, shaking him off, after climbing a considerable height, we stopped at Belen for a noonday rest and lunch.  Dinner having been ordered, we seated ourselves in the shade, when our drunken friend again appeared upon the scene, and in great excitement, begged me to move, as it was certain death for a heated and perspiring person to sit in the shadow of a Peru tree.  So persistent was he, that Quehcol and Manuel lost all patience, and ordered the local officials to arrest him.