were fast asleep within five minutes. Manuel
assisted the local cook in preparing dinner, while
we talked with visitors until the meal was ready.
The houses of San Pedro are well constructed of stone,
set in adobe, and have well-thatched roofs. The
granaries, or cuezcomates, are of unusual size
and well built. They range from six or eight
feet in height to twelve or more, and are shaped like
great urns, open at the top, which is protected by
a thatch, generally two-pitched. The temascals
were also unusually well built of stone, and frequently
were neatly covered with white plaster. Soon
after leaving San Pedro, in the afternoon, we came
upon two indian boys digging in the ground. Inquiring
what they were doing, we learned that they were hunting
honey-ants, and in a moment our whole party was engaged
in the same operation. These ants were found some
inches below the surface, either singly, or in roundish
holes containing half a dozen or more; the abdomen
was swelled until it was as round as a pea and as
large as a fair-sized currant, and was filled with
honey. To get the sweet liquid, one takes the
insect by the head or forward body and pressing the
honey bag sucks out the contents. It is sweet
and rich, with a little twang, as if fermented, and
people in the district call it honey-wine. Three
quarters of an hour brought us to San Francisco, though
we had to go down and up two large barrancas
before we reached the town. It was almost sunset
when we arrived. Sitting down before the town-house,
we sent for the agente. Soon after our
arrival the church-bell rang furiously, and the din
and clangor was kept up a long time. While waiting
for the official, supper was prepared, though we had
had some difficulty in arranging for it, and were in
doubt as to where we were to spend the night.
Before supper was ready, a motley crowd poured into
the room in which we sat. One large fellow carried
a great sword strapped at his side, another bore a
short sword, another a knife, another a large and
ancient gun. Probably there were other weapons
not in sight. This group of indians was the agente
and his guardia. We were objects of suspicion,
and much argument, and an abundant supply of huitzatl—strong
drink—were necessary, before we secured
permission to spend the night at the house where we
were to have supper. No sooner had this company
withdrawn and supper been eaten, than we prepared for
bed. One wooden bed, with a mat of rushes, served
for Senor Quechol and myself. A second mat, laid
on the floor, formed the bed for our four companions.
In the morning, we took a walk to Akxotla, where we
wished to see an ancient painting. Here we encountered
greater suspicion than before, and, after wasting
the greater part of the day, accomplished nothing.
It is true an indian made a camalpa for us.
This is a stringed musical instrument; though the
name is Aztec, it is unlikely that it was known before
the coming of the Spaniards. Quechol says the
word means mouth-harp, coming from the Aztec cam,
mouth, and the Spanish harpa, harp. We
returned to San Francisco for our dinner, and at four
o’clock again started on our journey.