the hillside, as in the land of the Mixes, but zigzag
by gentle diagonals up the slopes. The road was
largely composed of jagged rock; two hours and fifteen
minutes were necessary for the ascent; the descent
was bad enough, but a distinct improvement. At
one place, however, we wandered from the main-travelled
road, and found ourselves in an abandoned portion
of the road, full of great holes which were filled
with drifted fallen leaves, so that their presence
was not betrayed until our horses fell into them.
The latter part of this descent was slippery, being
over hard stone, which was worn almost to a glassy
smoothness by the passage of many hoofs. A little
before reaching Manteca, as we looked down from the
height, we saw an immense train of pack-mules coming.
In the good old days, before there were railroads,
such trains as this were frequent. From Manteca
the road penetrated into contracting valleys, until
finally it might, with propriety, be called a canon
road. At half past eight we reached San Carlos,
a mean town with no meson or other regular
stopping-place. We left the horses under the
shady trees with the old farrier. While we rested
and waited for breakfast, I called upon the jefe
politico, who had received several communications
from me, and had become interested in my work.
Our luggage was all at his office, and he promptly
made arrangements for its further transportation.
At breakfast, we received the cheerful news that Mr.
Lang’s horse had the lockjaw and showed signs
of dying. On inspection, this proved to be quite
true; the poor animal was in great pain, and could
eat nothing, though making every effort to do so.
Our first thought was a shot in the head to put it
out of misery, but the old farrier wished to try a
remedio. He did his best, and it looked
as if the animal might recover; it was plain, however,
that he could not be used again that afternoon.
Accordingly, an extra horse was rented for Mr. Lang’s
use. The remainder of the party was started on
the road at 1:50, while I waited to give the remedio
a chance to operate and the beast an opportunity to
rest. At three I started, leading the sick horse.
We had a fine ride in the cool of the evening, over
a mountain road past the little ranch El Quemado,
beyond which we found an immense ascent. When
we reached the summit, it was fast darkening, and I
pressed on as rapidly as the led horse would permit.
Finally, I reached Escondido at seven. Several
large parties of packers, with their trains of mules,
had already settled for the night; camp-fires were
burning. Here and there drinking had been going
on, and there was noise of loud laughter, singing
and dancing. Our party was already eating supper
when I arrived, and my own meal had been ordered.
Shelter was supplied us adjoining the house, where
we spread our blankets and spent a comfortable night.
We were late in starting, and were not upon the road
until seven in the morning. We found the high-road