It is called San Guiseppe, and has a faded fresco painting
on the gable, representing the Flight of the Holy
Family into Egypt, supposed to be by Frederico Zuccari,
whose own house—similarly decorated on
the outside with frescoes—was in the immediate
vicinity. From the windows of my rooms, I could
see at the foot of the street the fantastic cupola
and bell-turret of the church of St. Andrea delle
Fratte, which belonged to the Scottish Catholics before
the Reformation, and is now frequented by our Catholic
countrymen during Lent, when sermons are preached
to them in English. It is the parish church of
the Piazza di Spagna, and the so-called English quarter.
The present edifice was only built at the end of the
sixteenth century, and, strange to say, with the proceeds
of the sale of Cardinal Gonsalvi’s valuable
collection of snuff-boxes; but its name, derived from
the Italian word
Fratta, “thorn-bush,”
would seem to imply that the church is of much greater
antiquity, going back to a far-off time when the ground
on which it stands was an uncultivated waste.
A miracle is said to have happened in one of the side
chapels in 1842, which received the sanction of the
Pope. A young French Jew of the name of Alfonse
Ratisbonne was discovered in an ecstasy before the
altar; which he accounted for by saying, when he revived,
that the Virgin Mary had actually appeared to him,
and saluted him in this place, while he was wandering
aimlessly, and with a smile of incredulity, through
the church. This supernatural vision led to his
conversion, and he was publicly baptized and presented
to the Pope by his godfather, the general of the Jesuits;
receiving on the occasion, in commemoration of the
miracle, a crucifix, to which special indulgences
were attached.
At the foot of the Capo le Case is the College of
the Propaganda, whose vast size and plain massive
architecture, as well as its historical associations,
powerfully impress the imagination. It was begun
by Gregory XV., in 1622, and completed by his successor,
Urban viii., and his brother, Cardinal Antonio
Barberini, from the plans partly of Bernini and Borromini.
On the most prominent parts of the edifice are sculptured
bees, which are the well-known armorial bearings of
the Barberini family. The Propaganda used to divide
with the Vatican the administration of the whole Roman
Catholic world. It was compared by the Abbe Raynal
to a sword, of which the handle remains in Rome, and
the point reaches everywhere. The Vatican takes
cognisance of what may be called the domestic affairs
of the Church throughout Europe; the College of the
Propaganda superintends the foreign policy of the
Church, and makes its influence felt in the remotest
regions of the earth. It is essentially, as its
name implies, a missionary institution, founded for
the promotion and guidance of missions throughout
the world. Nearly two hundred youths from various
countries are constantly educated here, in order that