easy, sleeps in its deep basin, long ago divested
by the axe of Agrippa of the impenetrable gloom and
mysterious dread which its dark forests had created;
its steep banks partly covered with natural copsewood
bright with a living mosaic of cyclamens and lilies,
and partly formed of cultivated fields. During
my visit the delicious odour of the bean blossom pervaded
the fields, reminding me vividly of familiar rural
scenes far away. Yonder is the subterranean passage
called by the common people the Sibyl’s Cave,
where AEneas came and plucked the golden bough, and,
led by the melancholy priestess of Apollo, went down
to the dreary world of the dead. It was the general
tradition of Pagan nations that the point of departure
from this world, as well as the entrance to the next,
was always in the west. We find the largest number
of the prehistoric relics of the dead on the western
shores of our own country. The cave of Loch Dearg—at
first connected with primitive pagan rites and subsequently
the traditional entrance to the Purgatory of St. Patrick—is
situated in the west of Ireland, and corresponds to
the cave of the Sibyl and the Lake of Avernus in Italy.
Indeed the word Avernus itself bears such a close
resemblance to the Gaelic word Ifrinn—the
name of the infernal regions, and to the name of Loch
Hourn, the Lake of Hell, on the north-west coast of
Scotland—that it has given rise to the
supposition that it was the legacy of a prehistoric
Celtic people who at one time inhabited the Phlegraean
Fields. On the other side of Lake Avernus is the
Mare Morto, the Lake or Sea of the Dead, with its
memories of Charon and his ghostly crew, which now
shines in the setting sun like a field of gold sparkling
with jewels; and beyond it are the Elysian Fields,
the abodes of the blessed, the rich life of whose
soil breaks out at every pore into a luxuriant maze
of vines and orange trees, and all manner of lovely
and fruitful vegetation. Still farther behind
is the Acherusian Marsh of the poets, now called the
Lake of Fusaro, because hemp and flax are put to steep
in it; and the river Styx itself, by which the gods
dare not swear in vain, reduced to an insignificant
rill flowing into the sea. It is most interesting
to think of the apostle Paul being associated with
this enchanted region. His presence on the scene
is necessary to complete its charm, and to remind
us that the vain dreams of those blind old seekers
after God were all fulfilled in Him who opened a door
for us in heaven, and brought life and immortality
to light in the Gospel.
St. Paul must have noticed—though Scripture, intent only upon the unfolding of the religious drama, makes no reference to it—the crater of Solfatara, one of the most wonderful phenomena of this wonderful region, for it lay directly in his path, and was only about a mile distant from Puteoli. This was the famous Forum of Vulcan, where the god fashioned his terrible tools, and shook the earth with the fierce fires of his forge. On account of