We at last deliberately halted under a house where we could get a little shade, for the sun was intensely hot and, a crowd having soon collected, we harangued them alternately and received long answers in reply; but, although able to make out a great deal of what they said, we could not get them to understand a single word on our part.  At length kind fate sent the guides to our rescue and they led us off direct to the hotel.

This however brought only partial relief to our wants; we opened our mouths, and pointed down our throats.  So much was understood and a chicken instantly killed.  We laid our heads upon a table, feigning sleep, and were shown to a wretched room; but here all converse terminated.  Mr. Lushington desired to ascend the Peak therefore it became necessary that we should hit upon some means of making them comprehend this; but all efforts were in vain.  At length they proposed to send for an interpreter, which was accordingly done; but he was at dinner, and could not then come.

At last the interpreter arrived, a Spanish Don who had been for some years resident in a mercantile house in New York; he was very dirty, but good-natured, and soon made the necessary arrangements for Mr. Lushington; who for eight dollars was to be provided with a pony, a sumpter mule, provisions and guides, taken safely to the top of the Peak and brought back again; which I thought reasonable enough.

After these arrangements I managed to scrape some acquaintance with this Spanish gentleman, who told me to my great edification that I was in a notorious gambling house.  I had been informed at Santa Cruz that the inhabitants of those islands were dreadfully addicted to that vice, and I now, from personal observation, found this was too true.

After dinner I started to walk to the Port of Oratava, distant about three miles; there was beautiful scenery the whole way, and a tolerable road for the island.  I called on Mr. Carpenter, the British Consul, to whom I had a letter, and he made arrangements for my being admitted to the botanical gardens at six o’clock the next morning.

On my return to La Villa all the roues of the town were assembled at our hotel to eat ices and gamble:  I joined them in the former but not in the latter amusement.

Spanish interpreter.  Manners.

The gentleman who had acted as interpreter for us was also there, but I could gain very little further information from him.  He told me that they had just heard George the Eighth, the King of England, was dead (William the Fourth had just died) and his knowledge of the other European countries was much upon the same scale.  I found that gambling was here carried on to an extent which was really deplorable.

July 21.

I started at half-past five for the botanic gardens, diligently inspected them, and afterwards made a set of magnetic observations; this occupied a large portion of the morning.  I however still had time to geologise for about three hours, and then rode back to Santa Cruz, where I did not arrive till late at night.