It was at Arequipa, at the foot of the lofty volcanic mountain Misti, that the most terrible effects of the great earthquake were experienced.  Within historic times Misti has poured forth no lava streams, but that the volcano is not extinct is clearly evidenced by the fact that in 1542 an enormous mass of dust and ashes was vomited forth from its crater.  On August 13th. 1868, Misti showed no signs of being disturbed.  So far as the volcanic neighbor was concerned, the forty-four thousand inhabitants of Arequipa had no reason to anticipate the catastrophe which presently befell them.  At five minutes past five an earthquake shock was experienced, which, though severe, seems to have worked little mischief.  Half a minute later, however, a terrible noise was heard beneath the earth; a second shock more violent than the first was felt, and then began a swaying motion, gradually increasing in intensity.  In the-course of the first minute this motion had become so violent that the inhabitants ran in terror out of their houses into the streets and squares.  In the next two minutes the swaying movement had so increased that the more lightly built houses were cast to the ground, and the flying people could scarcely keep their feet.  “And now,” says Von Tschudi, “there followed during two or three minutes a terrible scene.  The swaying motion which had hitherto prevailed changed into fierce vertical upheaval.  The subterranean roaring increased in the most terrifying manner; then were heard the heart-piercing shrieks of the wretched people, the bursting of walls, the crashing fall of houses and churches, while over all rolled thick clouds of a yellowish-black dust, which, had they been poured forth many minutes longer, would have suffocated thousands.”  Although the shocks had lasted but a few minutes, the whole town was destroyed.  Not one building remained uninjured, and there were few which did not lie in shapeless heaps of ruins.

At Tacna and Arica the earth-shock was less severe, but strange and terrible phenomena followed it.  At the former place a circumstance occurred the cause and nature of which yet remain a mystery.  About three hours after the earthquake—­in other words, at about eight o’clock in the evening—­an intensely brilliant light made its appearance above the neighboring mountains.  It lasted for fully half an hour, and has been ascribed to the eruption of some as yet unknown volcano.

At Arica the sea-wave produced even more destructive effects than had been caused by the earthquake.  About twenty minutes after the first earth-shock the sea was seen to retire, as if about to leave the shores wholly dry; but presently its waters returned with tremendous force.  A mighty wave, whose length seemed immeasurable, was seen advancing like a dark wall upon the unfortunate town, a large part of which was overwhelmed by it.  Two ships, the Peruvian corvette America, and the United States “double-ender” Wateree, were carried nearly half a mile to the north of Arica beyond the railroad which runs to Tacna, and there left stranded high and dry.  This enormous wave was considered by the English vice-consul at Arica to have been fully fifty feet in height.