1774 August

During the night the wind had veered round to S.E.  As this was favourable for getting out of the harbour, at four o’clock in the morning of the 20th, we began to unmoor, and at eight, having weighed our last anchor, put to sea.  As soon as we were clear of the land, I brought-to, waiting for the launch, which was left behind to take up a kedge-anchor and hawser we had out, to cast by.  About day-break a noise was heard in the woods, nearly abreast of us, on the east side of the harbour, not unlike singing of psalms.  I was told that the like had been heard at the same time every morning, but it never came to my knowledge till now, when it was too late to learn the occasion of it.  Some were of opinion, that at the east point of the harbour (where we observed, in coming in, some houses, boats, etc.) was something sacred to religion, because some of our people had attempted to go to this point, and were prevented by the natives.  I thought, and do still think, it was owing to a desire they shewed on every occasion, of fixing bounds to our excursions.  So far as we had once been, we might go again; but not farther with their consent.  But by encroaching a little every time, our country expeditions were insensibly extended without giving the least umbrage.  Besides, these morning ceremonies, whether religious or not, were not performed down at that point, but in a part where some of our people had been daily.

I cannot say what might be the true cause of these people shewing such dislike to our going up into their country.  It might be owing to a naturally jealous disposition, or perhaps to their being accustomed to hostile visits from their neighbours, or quarrels among themselves.  Circumstances seemed to shew that such must frequently happen; for we observed them very expert in arms, and well accustomed to them; seldom or never travelling without them.  It is possible all this might be on our account; but I hardly think it.  We never gave them the least molestation, nor did we touch any part of their property, not even the wood and water, without first having obtained their consent.  The very cocoa-nuts, hanging over the heads of the workmen, were as safe as those in the middle of the island.  It happened rather fortunately, that there were so many cocoa-nut trees, near the skirts of the harbour, which seemed not to be private property; so that we could generally prevail on the natives to bring us some of these nuts, when nothing would induce them to bring any out of the country.

We were not wholly without refreshments; for besides the fish, which our seine now and then provided us with, we procured daily some fruits or roots from the natives, though but little in proportion to what we could consume.  The reason why we got no more might be our having nothing to give them in exchange, which they thought valuable.  They had not the least knowledge of iron; consequently, nails and iron tools, beads, etc. which had so great a run at the more eastern isles, were of no consideration here; and cloth can be of no use to people who go naked.