Rounding many a vitreous cape and bluff, in two hours’ time we shot inside the fatal reef; wound into a secret cove, looked up along a green many-gabled lava wall, and saw the island’s solitary dwelling.

It hung upon an impending cliff, sheltered on two sides by tangled thickets, and half-screened from view in front by juttings of the rude stairway, which climbed the precipice from the sea.  Built of canes, it was thatched with long, mildewed grass.  It seemed an abandoned hay-rick, whose haymakers were now no more.  The roof inclined but one way; the eaves coming to within two feet of the ground.  And here was a simple apparatus to collect the dews, or rather doubly-distilled and finest winnowed rains, which, in mercy or in mockery, the night-skies sometimes drop upon these blighted Encantadas.  All along beneath the eaves, a spotted sheet, quite weather-stained, was spread, pinned to short, upright stakes, set in the shallow sand.  A small clinker, thrown into the cloth, weighed its middle down, thereby straining all moisture into a calabash placed below.  This vessel supplied each drop of water ever drunk upon the isle by the Cholos.  Hunilla told us the calabash, would sometimes, but not often, be half filled overnight.  It held six quarts, perhaps.  “But,” said she, “we were used to thirst.  At sandy Payta, where I live, no shower from heaven ever fell; all the water there is brought on mules from the inland vales.”

Tied among the thickets were some twenty moaning tortoises, supplying Hunilla’s lonely larder; while hundreds of vast tableted black bucklers, like displaced, shattered tomb-stones of dark slate, were also scattered round.  These were the skeleton backs of those great tortoises from which Felipe and Truxill had made their precious oil.  Several large calabashes and two goodly kegs were filled with it.  In a pot near by were the caked crusts of a quantity which had been permitted to evaporate.  “They meant to have strained it off next day,” said Hunilla, as she turned aside.

I forgot to mention the most singular sight of all, though the first that greeted us after landing.

Some ten small, soft-haired, ringleted dogs, of a beautiful breed, peculiar to Peru, set up a concert of glad welcomings when we gained the beach, which was responded to by Hunilla.  Some of these dogs had, since her widowhood, been born upon the isle, the progeny of the two brought from Payta.  Owing to the jagged steeps and pitfalls, tortuous thickets, sunken clefts and perilous intricacies of all sorts in the interior, Hunilla, admonished by the loss of one favorite among them, never allowed these delicate creatures to follow her in her occasional birds’-nests climbs and other wanderings; so that, through long habituation, they offered not to follow, when that morning she crossed the land, and her own soul was then too full of other things to heed their lingering behind.  Yet, all along she had so clung to them, that, besides what moisture they lapped up at early daybreak from the small scoop-holes among the adjacent rocks, she had shared the dew of her calabash among them; never laying by any considerable store against those prolonged and utter droughts which, in some disastrous seasons, warp these isles.