The jib-sail was now cut out to the dimensions given in Fig. 172.  The foot of the sail was lashed to a jib-boom 3 feet 4 inches long.  The jib-boom was attached to the backbone at its fore end by means of a couple of screw eyes.  The eye of one of these was pried open, linked through the other and then closed again.  One of the screw eyes was now screwed into the head of the jib-boom and the other was threaded into the end of the backbone.  The upper corner or “head” of the jib was tied to a jib-halyard, which passed through a block at the top of the mast, and was secured on a cleat on the backbone.  On the jib we used two sheets.  They were attached to the end of the jib-boom and passed on opposite sides of the mast through blocks on the crosspiece to the stern of the boat, where separate cleats were provided for them.

This completed our ice boat, and a very pretty little boat she was.  It was with great reluctance that we furled the sails, unstepped the mast, and stowed away the parts in our attic until old Jack Frost should wake up and furnish us with a field of smooth ice.

The Sledge.

[Illustration:  Fig. 174.  A Spacing Block.]

[Illustration:  Fig. 175.  The Runners and Rails Spaced Apart.]

[Illustration:  Fig. 176.  The Sledge.]

Our sledge was patterned after a picture of one used by Peary in one of his Arctic expeditions.  First we got four strips of hickory 1 inch thick, 1-1/2 inches wide and 8 feet long for the runners and side rails.  Beginning 18 inches from the ends, each stick was tapered gradually to a thickness of 1/2 an inch.  Then we made eight spreaders or spacing blocks, each 1-1/2 inches thick, 2-1/2 inches wide and 11 inches long.  In each end a notch 1/2 inch deep was cut to receive the runners and side rails.  In the edge of each block, midway of its length, a slot 1 inch deep was cut to receive the cross sticks of the sledge.  First we nailed the runners and rails to the blocks, fastening them with screws, spacing the blocks 16 inches from the ends, and 20 inches apart from center to center.  Then we bent the ends of the rails and runners together, fastening them with bolts, as in Fig. 175.  Four crosspieces, or floor beams, were cut out of a 1-inch board, each 2 inches wide and 30 inches long.  These were fitted into the slots in the space blocks and secured with screws.  A cross stick was also fastened between the rails and runners at the forward end.  On the floor beams we nailed a flooring of 1/2-inch slats, 2 inches wide and 6 feet long.  At the rear end these slats projected 8 inches beyond the last space block and over them a cross slat was nailed.  A stick of hickory 4-1/2 feet long was soaked in hot water, as described on page 39, and was bent to an U-shape.  The ends were then fitted over the first cross stick, and under the first floor supports, and securely nailed in place.  Another stick of hickory 6 feet long was similarly bent, and the ends slipped over the rear cross slats and fitted against the rear space blocks, in which position the stick was securely nailed.  It was our intention to shoe the runners with strips of brass, but these were not procurable in our village, and we had no time to go down to Millville.  However, the village blacksmith came to our rescue and shod our sledge with sleigh runner iron.