ascended the rough stone steps through a winding stair
to the turrets, where we had such a view of the surrounding
country, as can be obtained from no other place.
On the top of the centre and highest turret, is a
grotesque figure of a fiddler; rather a strange looking
object, we thought, to occupy the most elevated pinnacle
on the house of God. All dwellings in the neighbourhood
appear like so many dwarfs couching at the feet of
the Minster; while its own vastness and beauty impress
the observer with feelings of awe and sublimity.
As we stood upon the top of this stupendous mountain
of ecclesiastical architecture, and surveyed the picturesque
hills and valleys around, imagination recalled the
tumult of the sanguinary battles fought in sight of
the edifice. The rebellion of Octavius near three
thousand years ago, his defeat and flight to the Scots,
his return and triumph over the Romans, and being crowned
king of all Britain; the assassination of Oswald king
of the Northumbrians; the flaying alive of Osbert;
the crowning of Richard III; the siege by William
the Conqueror; the siege by Cromwell, and the pomp
and splendour with which the different monarchs had
been received in York, all appeared to be vividly
before me. While we were thus calling to our aid
our knowledge of history, a sweet peal from the lungs
of the ponderous organ below cut short our stay among
the turrets, and we descended to have our organ of
tune gratified, as well as to finish the inspection
of the interior.
I have heard the sublime melodies of Handel, Hayden,
and Mozart, performed by the most skilful musicians;
I have listened with delight and awe to the soul-moving
compositions of those masters, as they have been chaunted
in the most magnificent churches; but never did I hear
such music, and played upon such an instrument, as
that sent forth by the great organ in the Cathedral
of York. The verger took much delight in showing
us the Horn that was once mounted with gold, but is
now garnished with brass. We viewed the monuments
and tombs of the departed, and then spent an hour
before the great north window. The designs on
the painted glass, which tradition states was given
to the church by five virgin sisters, is the finest
thing of the kind in Great Britain. I felt a
relief on once more coming into the open air and again
beholding Nature’s own sun-light. The splendid
ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey, with its eight beautiful
light gothic windows, next attracted our attention.
A visit to the Castle finished our stay in York; and
as we were leaving the old city we almost imagined
that we heard the chiming of the bells for the celebration
of the first Christian Sabbath, with Prince Arthur
as the presiding genius.
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