were not sorry to have opportunities of teaching the ‘Christian dogs’ their place.  The authorities maintained some semblance of order and justice, but took little trouble to control their underlings; and in consequence the pilgrims suffered all kinds of minor oppressions.  It is not surprising therefore to find that the contract stipulated that the patron should accompany them on all their journeyings in the Holy Land, even as far as the Jordan, and that he should pay all the tolls and tributes for them, except the small tips, just as Cook does to-day, and also make all arrangements for such pilgrims as wished to go on to Sinai.  In view of this last possibility the stipulation was sometimes made that only half the passage-money should be paid at Venice; the other half at Jaffa on the return-journey.  If a pilgrim died on the journey, the patron might not bury him at sea, unless there was no immediate prospect of reaching land.

The voyage outwards could be done in a month, but often took longer if the weather was bad, or if long halts were made at Rhodes and Cyprus.  On shore the pilgrims worked as hard as any ‘conducted’ party to-day, being herded about to one sacred site after another, to the Holy Sepulchre, the vale of Josaphat, the Mount of Olives, Bethlehem, the mountains of Judea, the Jordan, and receiving in each place ’clean absolution’.  Twelve or thirteen days was a fair time to allow for all this, including one or two days each way between Jaffa and Jerusalem; but Guilford’s party were given 22.  On the other hand we hear of another company which did it in nine.

The Holy Land guide-book of which we spoke is full of practical advice of all sorts:  about distances, rates of exchange, terms of contract with a ship-master, tributes to be paid to the Saracens, and finally vocabularies of useful words, in Moresco, Greek, Turkish.  Here are a few specimens: 

’If ye shall go in a galley, make your covenant with the patron betime; and choose you a place in the said galley in the overmost stage.  For in the lowest under it is right evil and smouldering hot and stinking.’  The fare in this to Jaffa and back from Venice, including food, was 50 ducats, ’for to be in a good honest place, and to have your ease in the galley and also to be cherished’.  In a carrick the fare was only 30 ducats:  there ’choose you a chamber as nigh the middes of the ship as ye may; for there is least rolling or tumbling, to keep your brain and stomach in temper’.  Amongst other arrangements to be made with the patron, ’Covenant that ye come not at Famagust in Cyprus for no thing.  For many Englishmen and other also have died.  For that air is so corrupt there about, and the water there also.  Also see that the said patron give you every day hot meat twice at two meals, the forenoon at dinner and the afternoon at supper.  And that the wine that ye shall drink be good, and the water fresh and not stinking, if ye come to have better, and also the biscuit.’