on each side, with neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from the scorching sun by fruit trees, I thought I was transported into the most fertile plains in Europe.  There was not an inch of waste ground; the roads occupied no more space than was absolutely necessary; the fences did not take up above four inches each; and even this was not wholly lost, for in many were planted some useful trees or plants.  It was everywhere the same; change of place altered not the scene.  Nature, assisted by a little art, no where appears in more splendour than at this isle.  In these delightful walks we met numbers of people; some travelling down to the ships with their burdens of fruit; others returning back empty.  They all gave us the road, by turning either to the right or left, and sitting down or standing, with their backs to the fences, till we had passed.

At several of the cross-roads, or at the meeting of two or more roads, were generally Afiatoucas, such as already described; with this difference, the mounts were pallisadoed round, instead of a stone wall.  At length, after walking several miles, we came to one larger than common; near to which was a large house belonging to an old chief, in our company.  At this house we were desired to stop, which we accordingly did, and were treated with fruit, &c.

We were no sooner seated in the house, than the eldest of the priests began a speech or prayer, which was first directed to the Afiatouca, and then to me, and alternately.  When he addressed me, he paused at every sentence, till I gave a nod of approbation.  I, however, did not understand one single word he said.  At times, the old gentleman seemed to be at a loss what to say, or perhaps his memory failed him; for, every now and then, he was prompted by one of the other priests who sat by him.  Both during this prayer and the former one, the people were silent, but not attentive.  At this last place we made but a short stay.  Our guides conducted us down to our boat, and we returned with Attago to our ship to dinner.  We had no sooner got on board, than an old gentleman came alongside, who, I understood from Attago, was some king or great man.  He was, accordingly, ushered on board; when I presented him with such things as he most valued (being the only method to make him my friend,) and seated him at table to dinner.  We now saw that he was a man of consequence; for Attago would not sit down and eat before him, but got to the other end of the table; and, as the old chief was almost blind, he sat there, and eat with his back towards him.  After the old man had eaten a bit of fish, and drank two glasses of wine, he returned ashore.  As soon as Attago had seen him out of the ship, he came and took his place at table, finished his dinner, and drank two glasses of wine.  When dinner was over, we all went ashore, where we found the old chief, who presented me with a hog; and he and some others took a walk with us into the country.