[Illustration:  THE GOLDEN GATE.]

[Illustration:  THE GOLDEN GATE, LOOKING OUTWARD.]

A few miles after leaving the Hot Springs, we reached the entrance to a picturesque ravine, the tawny color of whose rocks has given it the name of Golden Gate.  This is, alike, the entrance to, and exit from, the inner sanctuary of this land of marvels.  Accordingly a solitary boulder, detached from its companions on the cliff, seems to be stationed at this portal like a sentinel to watch all tourists who come and go.  At all events it echoes to the voices of those who enter almost as eager as seekers after gold; and, a week later, sees them return, browned by the sun, invigorated by the air, and joyful in the acquisition of incomparable memories.

Emerging from this Golden Gate, I looked about me with surprise, as the narrow walls of the ravine gave place to a plateau surrounded everywhere by snow-capped mountains, from which the Indians believed one could obtain a view of Paradise.  Across this area, like a railroad traversing a prairie, stretched the driveway for our carriages.

“Do tourists usually seem delighted with the park?” I asked our driver.

“Invariably,” he replied.  “Of course I cannot understand the words of the foreigners, but their excited exclamations show their great enthusiasm.  I like the tourists,” he continued, “they are so grateful for any little favor!  One of them said to me the other day, ’Is the water here good to drink?’ ‘Not always,’ I replied, ’you must be careful.’  At once he pressed my hand, pulled out a flask, and said, ’I thank you!”

[Illustration:  THE PLATEAU.]

While crossing the plateau we enjoyed an admirable view of the loftiest of the mountains which form, around the Park, a rampart of protection.  Its sharply pointed summit pierces the transparent air more than eleven thousand feet above the sea, and it is well named Electric Peak, since it appears to be a storage battery for all of the Rocky Mountains.  Such are the mineral deposits on its sides, that the best instruments of engineers are thrown into confusion, and rendered useless, while the lightning on this favorite home of electricity is said to be unparalleled.

[Illustration:  ELECTRIC PEAK.]

[Illustration:  THE GLASS MOUNTAIN.]

Presently a turn in the road revealed to us a dark-hued mountain rising almost perpendicularly from a lake.  Marvelous to relate, the material of which this mountain is composed is jet-black glass, produced by volcanic fires.  The very road on which we drove between this and the lake also consists of glass too hard to break beneath the wheels.  The first explorers found this obsidian cliff almost impassable; but when they ascertained of what it was composed, they piled up timber at its base, and set it on fire.  When the glass was hot, they dashed upon the heated mass cold water, which broke it into fragments.  Then with huge levers, picks, and shovels, they pushed and pried the shining pieces down into the lake, and opened thus a wagon-road a thousand feet in length.