We from this time lived much better, and the soldier brought us even wine and fruit.  We took it for granted that our case had been represented to the governor, and that he had increased our pay.  As to the first, we were right in our conjectures; it had been mentioned to him, that it was impossible we could subsist on what he allowed; and his answer to it was, that we might starve, for we should have no more from him, and that he believed he should never be repaid even that.  This charitable speech of the governor was made known everywhere, and now almost every one who came to see us gave us something; even the mule-drivers would take out their tobacco-pouch, in which they kept their money, and give us half a real.  All this we would have given to our soldier, but he never would receive a farthing from us, telling us we might still want it; and the whole time we were there, which was some weeks, he laid aside half his daily pay to supply us, though he had a wife and six children, and never could have the least hope or expectation of any recompence.  However, two years after this I had the singular pleasure of making him some return, when my circumstances were much better than his.

One night, when we were locked up, there happened a dreadful shock of an earthquake.  We expected every moment the roof and walls of our prison to fall in upon us and crush us to pieces; and what added to the horror of it was, the noise of chains and imprecations in the next prison which joined to ours, where there were near seventy felons heavily loaded with irons, who are kept here to work upon the fortifications, as in other countries they are condemned to the gallies.  A few days after this, we were told an order was come from the president to the governor to send us up to St Jago, which is ninety miles from Valparaiso, and is the capital of Chili.  There were at this time several ships in the port from Lima delivering their cargoes, so that almost every day there were large droves of mules going up to St Jago with the goods.  The governor sent for one of the master carriers, and ordered him to take us up with him.  The man asked him how he was to be paid our expences, as he should be five days upon the road.  The governor told him he might get that as he could, for he would not advance him a single farthing.

After taking leave of our friendly soldier, who even now brought us some little matters to carry with us, we set out, and travelled about fourteen miles the first day, and lay at night in the open field, which is always the custom of these people, stopping where there is plenty of pasture and good water for the mules.  The next morning we passed over a high mountain called Zapata; and then crossing a large plain, we passed another mountain, very difficult for the mules, who each carried two heavy bales:  There were above an hundred in this drove.  The mules of Chili are the finest in the world; and though they are continually upon the road, and have nothing but what they pick up at night, they are as fat and sleek as high-fed horses in England.  The fourth night we lay upon a plain in sight of St Jago, and not above four leagues from it.