We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow, and had advanced a considerable way beyond all the houses and plantations when we were suddenly stopped by a cascade that fell into the river from a height of above 200 feet:  the fall at this time was not great but in the heavy rains must be considerable.  The natives look upon this as the most wonderful sight in the island.  The fall of water is the least curious part; the cliff over which it comes is perpendicular, forming an appearance as if supported by square pillars of stone, and with a regularity that is surprising.  Underneath is a pool eight or nine feet deep into which the water falls; and in this place all the natives make a point of bathing once in their lives, probably from some religious idea.

The hills here approach each other within a few yards and are well covered with wood.  As the road appeared difficult I did not care to proceed towards the mountain.  I cannot with certainty say how far this curious precipice is from the bay, but think in the road by which we went it cannot be less than seven miles.  It is called Peeah Roah.

In our return we found a young pig prepared for us and we made a hearty meal.  We dined in the house of an old acquaintance of Nelson’s for whom he had in 1777 planted the two shaddock plants formerly mentioned which he had brought from the Friendly Islands.  These we had the satisfaction to see were grown to fine trees and full of fruit.

In their plantations they do not take much pains except with the Ava and the Cloth-plant, both of which they are careful to keep clear of weeds.  Many of the plantations of the cloth-plant were fenced with stone and surrounded with a ditch.  The yams and plantains are mostly on the higher grounds.  As soon as we had finished our dinner we returned towards the ship.  I was much delighted in this walk with the number of children that I saw in every part of the country:  they are very handsome and sprightly and full of antic tricks.  They have many diversions that are common with the boys in England such as flying kites, cats cradle, swinging, dancing or jumping in a rope, walking upon stilts and wrestling.

Friday 19.

The wind today blew fresh but continued regular from the east and east-south-east.  We had likewise much rain and a long swell set into the bay.  I had not yet determined whether, on leaving Matavai bay, I would go to the island Eimeo or to the harbour of Toahroah near Oparre:  this uncertainty made Tinah and the rest of my friends very anxious; and they appeared much distressed on my desiring them this afternoon to send on board all the things which they wished to have repaired by the forge without delay, that what they wanted might be done before the ship left Matavai, which I told them would be in a few days.  They very earnestly entreated I would stay one month longer.  I represented this as impossible and asked Tinah if he would not go with me to Eimeo; but he said that notwithstanding my protection he was certain the Eimeo people would watch for an opportunity to kill him.  He remained on board with me all night but his wife went on shore and returned early in the morning, bringing with her some axes and other things that were in need of repair.