Among the Indians the lake holds high place as the favourite haunt of the Manitou.  The strange water-worn rocks, the islands of soft pipe-stone from which are cut the bowls for many a calumet, the curious masses of ore resting on the polished surface of rock, the islands struck yearly by lightning, the islands which abound in lizards although these reptiles are scarce elsewhere—­all these make the Lake of the Woods a region abounding in Indian legend and superstition.  There are isles upon which he will not dare to venture, because the evil spirit has chosen them; there are promontories upon which offerings must be made to the Manitou when the canoe drifts by their lonely shores; and there are spots watched over by the great Kennebic, or Serpent, who is jealous of the treasures which they contain.  But all these things are too long to dwell upon now; I must haste along my way.

On the second morning after leaving Rat Portage we began to leave behind the thickly-studded islands and to get out into the open waters.  A thunder-storm had swept the lake during the night, but the morning was calm, and the heavy sweeps were not able to make much way.  Suddenly, while we were halted for breakfast, the wind veered round to the north-west and promised us a rapid passage across the Grande Traverse to the mouth of Rainy River.  Embarking hastily, we set sail for a strait known as the Grassy Portage, which the high stage of water in the lake enabled us to run through without touching ground.  Beyond this strait there stretched away a vast expanse of water over which the white-capped waves were running in high billows from the west.  It soon became so rough that we had to take on board the small canoe which I had brought with me from Rat Portage in case of accident, and which was towing astern.  On we swept over the high-rolling billows with a double reef in the lug-sail.  Before us, far away, rose a rocky promontory, the extreme point of which we had to weather in order to make the mouth of Rainy River.  Keeping the boat as close to the wind as she would go, we reeled on over the tumbling seas.  Our lee-way was very great, and for some time it seemed doubtful if we would clear the point; as we neared it we saw that there was a tremendous sea running against the rock, the white sprays shooting far up into the air When the rollers struck against it.  The wind had now freshened to a gale and the boat laboured much, constantly shipping sprays.  At last we were abreast of the rocks, close hauled, and yet only a hundred yards from the breakers.  Suddenly the wind veered a little, or the heavy swell which was running caught us, for we began to drift quickly down into the mass of breakers.  The men were all huddled together in the bottom of the boat, and for a moment or two nothing could be done.  “Out with the sweeps!” I roared.  All was confusion; the long sweeps got foul of each other, and for a second every thing went wrong.  At last three sweeps were got to work, but they could do nothing