In May 1769, soon after our return from Turkey, our ship made a delightful voyage to Oporto in Portugal, where we arrived at the time of the carnival.  On our arrival, there were sent on board to us thirty-six articles to observe, with very heavy penalties if we should break any of them; and none of us even dared to go on board any other vessel or on shore till the Inquisition had sent on board and searched for every thing illegal, especially bibles.  Such as were produced, and certain other things, were sent on shore till the ships were going away; and any person in whose custody a bible was found concealed was to be imprisoned and flogged, and sent into slavery for ten years.  I saw here many very magnificent sights, particularly the garden of Eden, where many of the clergy and laity went in procession in their several orders with the host, and sung Te Deum.  I had a great curiosity to go into some of their churches, but could not gain admittance without using the necessary sprinkling of holy water at my entrance.  From curiosity, and a wish to be holy, I therefore complied with this ceremony, but its virtues were lost on me, for I found myself nothing the better for it.  This place abounds with plenty of all kinds of provisions.  The town is well built and pretty, and commands a fine prospect.  Our ship having taken in a load of wine, and other commodities, we sailed for London, and arrived in July following.  Our next voyage was to the Mediterranean.  The ship was again got ready, and we sailed in September for Genoa.  This is one of the finest cities I ever saw; some of the edifices were of beautiful marble, and made a most noble appearance; and many had very curious fountains before them.  The churches were rich and magnificent, and curiously adorned both in the inside and out.  But all this grandeur was in my eyes disgraced by the galley slaves, whose condition both there and in other parts of Italy is truly piteous and wretched.  After we had stayed there some weeks, during which we bought many different things which we wanted, and got them very cheap, we sailed to Naples, a charming city, and remarkably clean.  The bay is the most beautiful I ever saw; the moles for shipping are excellent.  I thought it extraordinary to see grand operas acted here on Sunday nights, and even attended by their majesties.  I too, like these great ones, went to those sights, and vainly served God in the day while I thus served mammon effectually at night.  While we remained here there happened an eruption of mount Vesuvius, of which I had a perfect view.  It was extremely awful; and we were so near that the ashes from it used to be thick on our deck.  After we had transacted our business at Naples we sailed with a fair wind once more for Smyrna, where we arrived in December.  A seraskier or officer took a liking to me here, and wanted me to stay, and offered me two wives; however I refused the temptation.  The merchants here travel in caravans or large companies.  I have seen many caravans