and Turkey, and he wanted a man who could dress hair
well. I was overjoyed at this, and went immediately
on board of his ship, as I had been directed, which
I found to be fitted up with great taste, and I already
foreboded no small pleasure in sailing in her.
Not finding the gentleman on board, I was directed
to his lodgings, where I met with him the next day,
and gave him a specimen of my dressing. He liked
it so well that he hired me immediately, so that I
was perfectly happy; for the ship, master, and voyage,
were entirely to my mind. The ship was called
the Delawar, and my master’s name was John Jolly,
a neat smart good humoured man, just such an one as
I wished to serve. We sailed from England in July
following, and our voyage was extremely pleasant.
We went to Villa Franca, Nice, and Leghorn; and in
all these places I was charmed with the richness and
beauty of the countries, and struck with the elegant
buildings with which they abound. We had always
in them plenty of extraordinary good wines and rich
fruits, which I was very fond of; and I had frequent
occasions of gratifying both my taste and curiosity;
for my captain always lodged on shore in those places,
which afforded me opportunities to see the country
around. I also learned navigation of the mate,
which I was very fond of. When we left Italy
we had delightful sailing among the Archipelago islands,
and from thence to Smyrna in Turkey. This is
a very ancient city; the houses are built of stone,
and most of them have graves adjoining to them; so
that they sometimes present the appearance of church-yards.
Provisions are very plentiful in this city, and good
wine less than a penny a pint. The grapes, pomegranates,
and many other fruits, were also the richest and largest
I ever tasted. The natives are well looking and
strong made, and treated me always with great civility.
In general I believe they are fond of black people;
and several of them gave me pressing invitations to
stay amongst them, although they keep the franks,
or Christians, separate, and do not suffer them to
dwell immediately amongst them. I was astonished
in not seeing women in any of their shops, and very
rarely any in the streets; and whenever I did they
were covered with a veil from head to foot, so that
I could not see their faces, except when any of them
out of curiosity uncovered them to look at me, which
they sometimes did. I was surprised to see how
the Greeks are, in some measure, kept under by the
Turks, as the negroes are in the West Indies by the
white people. The less refined Greeks, as I have
already hinted, dance here in the same manner as we
do in my nation. On the whole, during our stay
here, which was about five months, I liked the place
and the Turks extremely well. I could not help
observing one very remarkable circumstance there:
the tails of the sheep are flat, and so very large,
that I have known the tail even of a lamb to weigh
from eleven to thirteen pounds. The fat of them
is very white and rich, and is excellent in puddings,
for which it is much used. Our ship being at
length richly loaded with silk, and other articles,
we sailed for England.