After refreshing ourselves, according to the custom of the country, with chocolate, biscuit, and water, we were serenaded by the sound of a harp from some inner apartment, of which instrument the artist seemed to have a good command, as I heard parts of several famous compositions, both Italian and English.  Upon enquiry, I found that all Don Jeronimo’s daughters had learnt music, and sung or played upon some instrument.  Though this seemed unaccountable at first, I afterwards found that music was much cultivated in Peru.  During the prevalence of the Italian party at the court of Madrid, the last viceroy of Peru, the prince of San Bueno, who was an Italian, brought a great many musicians to that country along with him, by whom the taste for music had spread every where, and had become as good in Peru as in old Spain.  I the rather notice this, because, by our being lovers of music, and behaving peaceably and civilly to the inhabitants, we passed our time quietly and chearfully.  We were only exposed to one inconvenience, which lasted all the time we remained here:  which was, the daily assembling of the people to stare at us.  I and my sergeant Cobbs, being used to exercise in public, bore this pretty well; but Mr Pressick, being a grave man, at first hung down his head, and was very melancholy.  But he grew better acquainted with the people by degrees, and came to like them so well, that we had much ado to get him away, when it became necessary for us to remove our quarters.

Almost all the commodities of Europe are distributed through Spanish America by a sort of pedlars, or merchants who travel on foot.  These men come from Panama to Payta by sea; and in their road from Payta to Lima, make Piura their first stage, disposing of their goods, and lessening their burdens, as they go along.  From Piura, some take the inland road by Caxamarca, and others the road along the coast through Truxillo.  From Lima they take their passage back to Panama by sea, perhaps carrying with them a small adventure of brandy.  At Panama they again stock themselves with European goods, and return by sea to Payta.  Here they hire mules to carry their goods, taking Indians along with them to guide the mules and carry them back:  And in this way these traders keep a continual round, till they have gained a sufficiency to live on.  Their travelling expenses are next to nothing; as the Indians are under such entire subjection to the Spaniards, that they always find them in lodgings free, and provide them with provender for their mules.  All this every white man may command, being an homage the Indians have long been accustomed to, and some think themselves honoured into the bargain.  Yet out of generosity, they sometimes meet with a small recompense.  Among the British and French, a pedlar is despised, and his employment is considered as a very, mean shift for getting a living:  But it is quite otherwise here, where the quick return of money is a sufficient excuse for the manner in which it is gained; and there are many gentlemen in old Spain, in declining circumstances, who send their sons to what they call the Indies, to retrieve their fortunes in this way.