their martial life went with them to the court of Elizabeth.  There it showed itself in gallantry, in love of show, and in a devotion to amusement and to self-cultivation which internal peace had at length made possible.  Men of whom any age might be proud crowded the scene.  Cecil and Walsingham among statesmen, Drake among discoverers, Bacon and Hooker among thinkers, Raleigh and Sidney at once among courtiers, soldiers, and scholars.  The prevailing extravagance and variety of dress was simply the outward sign of a love of whatever was brilliant and new.  The fashions of France, of Spain, of Turkey, even of the Moors contributed to the wardrobe of the English gallant.  “And, as these fashions are diverse, so likewise it is a world to see the costlinesse and the curiositie:  the excesse and the vanitie:  the pomp and the braverie; the change and the varietie:  and finallie the ficklenesse and the follie that is in all degrees:  insomuch that nothing is more constant in England than inconstancie of attire."[50] Each one aimed at making the best appearance.  The long seams of men’s hose were set by a plumb line, and beards were cut to suit the face, “If a man have a leane and streight face, a Marquess Ottons cut will make it broad and large; if it be platter-like, a long, slender beard will make it seeme the narrower.”  “Some lustie courtiers also, and gentlemen of courage doo weare either rings of golde, stones, or pearle in their eares, whereby they imagine the workmanship of God not to be a little amended."[51] All are familiar with the brilliant female dress of the time.  The enormous starched ruffs of various colors, the long stomachers stiffened with wire and studded with jewels, the costly stuffs enriched with gold and silver, made up a costume which has never been surpassed in extravagance and fanciful exaggeration.

The queen herself set the example of brilliancy of costume, and took care to be outshone by none.  Sir John Harrington relates that “Ladie M. Howarde was possessede of a rich border, powdered wyth golde and pearle and a velvet suite belonginge thereto, which moved manie to envye; nor did it please the queene, who thought it exceeded her owne.  One daye the queene did sende privately, and got the ladie’s rich vesture, which she put on herself, and came forthe the chamber amonge the ladies; the kirtle and border was far too shorte for her majestie’s heigth; and she asked everyone, ‘How they likede her new fancied suit?’ At length she askede the owner herself, ’If it was not made too shorte and ill becoming?’—­which the poor ladie did presentlie consente to.  ’Why, then, if it become not me, as being too shorte, I am minded it shall never become thee, as being too fine; so it fitteth neither well.’  This sharp rebuke abashed the ladie, and she never adorned her herewith any more."[52]