I reach Ibembo on the 30th and am met by Lieutenant Francois, the Chef du Poste.  It is a large station with a big mess for many travellers are continually passing through.  On this date three hundred and fifty soldiers with their officers were marching through with the object of occupying Enguetra and its district until the Sultan becomes a little more reasonable.  It is very difficult for the troops to avoid ambuscades in the forest.  They march in a hollow square formation with the women, who carry much of the baggage, in the centre.  Each soldier carries a knife and literally cuts his way through the undergrowth.  If the head, flanks or rear of the square is attacked the men close up and meet the enemy with a steady fire for they always march with the rifle loaded.  Progress is naturally very slow and the enemy difficult to catch, while the chance of being hit by a poisoned arrow or a lance hurled from behind a tree is always present.  The soldier however, is very plucky and well earns his twenty-one cents each day, and the one franc twenty-five cents a month which is reserved for him.

[Illustration:  THE ITIMBIRI RIVER.]

Next day I visit the Catholic Mission of Ibembo and am received by Father Benin who is in charge in the absence of Mgr.  Derikx.  The Mission is situated on a plateau about 200 feet high on the opposite bank to the Post, but a little lower down the stream and the whole place is admirably arranged, the view across the river being especially beautiful.  Three hundred natives, mostly children, are engaged in the plantations and gardens all being dressed in a pretty uniform and appearing healthy and happy.  There is indeed, very little sickness here, for the buildings and grounds are as scrupulously clean as those of a State Post.  In a well-fitted carpenter’s shop the entire furniture for the chapel and houses has been made from the wood of old canoes which is hard and well-seasoned.  The boys also work in ivory, turning serviette rings with great accuracy and skill.  Four or five brethren and five sisters form the staff of the Mission and one of the latter superintends the cooking with most happy results.

Next day I walk through the native villages near Ibembo where most of the men fish and the women make pots of clay.  There are a great number of children about and very little sickness.  Sunday as usual was market day and the people from the neighbourhood brought in kwanga, fish, eggs, chicken and three antelopes.  Food is sold for mitakos three of which will purchase enough kwanga to feed a man and woman for a day.  In the afternoon a Chief arrives with the not unusual story that a troup of elephants have entered and destroyed his plantation of manioc.  We arrange therefore to start at 4 a.m. next morning on the chance that they will repeat their visit, but a heavy tornado in the night renders hunting impossible.  After spending a pleasant week at Ibembo, I prepare to descend the river to Bumba and then to ascend the Congo to Stanley Falls.