After passing several densely populated villages, one of which extends in a straight line for ten miles, we reach Libenge, the capital of the Ubangi District.  The houses here have been arranged around a square with one side open to the river.  In one of these we take up our quarters and then go for a stroll with Captain Bertrand, the Commissaire of the District, and Dr. Rhodain, the medical officer for Ubangi.  The latter states that he has only seen two cases of sleeping sickness in several years’ residence and that there is no syphilis, small-pox or tuberculosis in the neighbourhood.  The people work well here,—­the villagers collecting the usual kilogramme per month, while the workers in the plantations clear the forest and plant more rubber for future use.  The hunting here is very good in the dry season.  Now however, it is necessary to wade in water three feet deep in the forest.  Spoor of elephant and antelope abound and there are several magnificent eagles and hawks overhead.

The chief difficulty here for Europeans is the water question.  Although much of this necessity is on all sides, it is not of good drinking quality and dysentery is therefore common, while bilious fever and hematuria are also known.

One night at Libenge as we were playing bridge, the sentry suddenly fired and the bullet whistled uncomfortably close by the door of our house.  The guard turned out very quickly without any fuss and passed at the double.  A single sharp order was given and then all was quiet again.  Next day we heard that a thief had penetrated to the rubber store when he was seen by the sentry, who fired the alarm, but the man was not captured.  All the natives here seem anxious to trade.  Ladies sell us their brass bangles for a tea cup full of salt and their dresses for a similar amount.  Spears, knives and many other curios are also offered for sale some of which have evidently been hastily made since our arrival.

We leave Libenge on September 9th and continue our journey in the Florida, this being her first trip up the river higher than this point for at low water, the rapids above cannot be navigated by steamers at all.  Now however, the depth is almost at its maximum, and as the boat only draws two feet, she can pass over the rocks with great ease.  In the afternoon we stop at a village and ask for wood, for as there was no regular steamer service, there were no organised Wood Posts.  The natives at first brought down a log or two and demanded payment at an exorbitant rate, which the captain refused to give, and it became necessary for our crew to go ashore and cut wood themselves.  The Chief seemed willing to deal fairly, but evidently had little authority over his lazy people.  Then on again through the tornado, which at this season appears daily with great regularity either in the afternoon or at night time.  The scenery is now changing, for we are approaching the limits of the great equatorial forest.  Hills, which appear like mountains, after the dead level, can be seen in front covered with grass and a few trees.