On the same day Mr. Joseph Clarke, of the American Baptist Mission at Ikoko, calls at Irebu and kindly invites me to his house for a few days.  This is situated on the banks of Lake Tumba, or Mantumba or Lac N’Tomba, whichever you prefer.  Lord Mountmorres remains at Irebu, but I leave in Mr. Clarke’s boat, propelled by twenty four paddlers, and journey along the canal, which twists and turns in all directions.  Towards sunset we land at Boboko where Mr. Clarke buys some ducks and eggs, the price of the latter being a table-spoonful of salt for each.  He arranges also to sell some nails to the Chief.  We then cross the canal to Itutu, a branch Mission Station conducted by a native who preaches, and is an excellent carpenter.  Here we sleep, Mr. Clarke making up a bed in the boat, while I occupy a mud hut which however, is scrupulously clean.

Next morning, after a bathe in the canal, in which the water is like warm, weak coffee, we continue our journey to Ngero, a long straggling village on the north bank of the Lake.  The huts here are oblong and strongly constructed of hard cane and mud, the roofs being thatched with dried palm leaves closely interlaced.  It is necessary to stoop to enter them, for the doors are not five feet high, but it is possible to stand upright within.  There is usually a wood fire burning, but no outlet for the smoke, which slowly finds its way through the roof.  The rafters therefore, are covered with a kind of tar which, undoubtedly, acts as an antiseptic, and also keeps away the insects.  The mosquitoes indeed, will not face wood smoke, but tobacco smoke is useless as a shield against their attacks.  Both sexes here are practically nude.  The men are fishermen and the women look after the banana-plantations, crush the palm nuts for oil and do the cooking and housework.

Ngero was the village of the Chief Lokolo Longania, who raised a rebellion against the State some years ago, and after some trouble was captured and hanged.  Here we buy some fish and eggs and then go on to Ikoko, the crew singing native songs and Christian hymns as they paddle along.  The Mission house is very prettily situated, and is a wooden building, with that very rare luxury in the Congo, glass windows.  Here we are met by Mrs. Clarke, who has spent many years with her husband in Africa.  The Mission has a good farm and garden, and since the climate is not as bad as in many parts, its inmates enjoy fair health.  A large wooden building is used as a chapel and school, and near it is a saw pit and a carpenter’s shop where the boys make furniture and boxes for sale at Irebu and other Posts in the neighbourhood, for the furniture of the Ikoko Mission is quite famous.  The girls all wear plain, blue frocks which they make themselves, as well as clothes for sale, and many are also quite expert at various kinds of fancy needlework.  The business has however, decreased lately owing to the decrease in population.  The Mission bell has been ingeniously fixed in a tree, and it calls to school, to work and prayer, as regularly as the bugle in the State Posts.