from the Adriatic, but which is so low as hardly to
disturb the impression of the city’s having
been built in the midst of the ocean, although the
secret of its true position is partly, yet not painfully,
betrayed by the clusters of piles set to mark the deepwater
channels, which undulate far away in spotty chains
like the studded backs of huge sea-snakes, and by
the quick glittering of the crisped and crowded waves
that flicker and dance before the strong winds upon
the uplifted level of the shallow sea. But the
scene is widely different at low tide. A fall
of eighteen or twenty inches is enough to show ground
over the greater part of the lagoon; and at the complete
ebb the city is seen standing in the midst of a dark
plain of sea-weed, of gloomy green, except only where
the larger branches of the Brenta and its associated
streams converge towards the port of the Lido.
Through this salt and sombre plain the gondola and
the fishing-boat advance by tortuous channels, seldom
more than four or five feet deep, and often so choked
with slime that the heavier keels furrow the bottom
till their crossing tracks are seen through the clear
sea water like the ruts upon a wintry road, and the
oar leaves blue gashes upon the ground at every stroke,
or is entangled among the thick weed that fringes the
banks with the weight of its sullen waves, leaning
to and fro upon the uncertain sway of the exhausted
tide. The scene is often profoundly oppressive,
even at this day, when every plot of higher ground
bears some fragment of fair building: but, in
order to know what it was once, let the traveller
follow in his boat at evening the windings of some
unfrequented channel far into the midst of the melancholy
plain; let him remove, in his imagination, the brightness
of the great city that still extends itself in the
distance, and the walls and towers from the islands
that are near; and so wait, until the bright investiture
and sweet warmth of the sunset are withdrawn from
the waters, and the black desert of their shore lies
in its nakedness beneath the night, pathless, comfortless,
infirm, lost in dark languor and fearful silence,
except where the salt runlets plash into the tideless
pools, or the sea-birds flit from their margins with
a questioning cry; and he will be enabled to enter
in some sort into the horror of heart with which this
solitude was anciently chosen by man for his habitation.
They little thought, who first drove the stakes into
the sand, and strewed the ocean reeds for their rest,
that their children were to be the princes of that
ocean, and their palaces its pride; and yet, in the
great natural laws that rule that sorrowful wilderness,
let it be remembered what strange preparation had
been made for the things which no human imagination
could have foretold, and how the whole existence and
fortune of the Venetian nation were anticipated or
compelled, by the setting of those bars and doors
to the rivers and the sea. Had deeper currents
divided their islands, hostile navies would again and