Vicenza, the chain of the Alps girded the whole horizon
to the north—a wall of jagged blue, here
and there showing through its clefts a wilderness of
misty precipices, fading far back into the recesses
of Cadore, and itself rising and breaking away eastward,
where the sun struck opposite upon its snow, into
mighty fragments of peaked light, standing up behind
the barred clouds of evening, one after another, countless,
the crown of the Adrian Sea, until the eye turned
back from pursuing them, to rest upon the nearer burning
of the campaniles of Murano, and on the great city,
where it magnified itself along the waves, as the quick
silent pacing of the gondola drew nearer and nearer.
And at last, when its walls were reached, and the
outmost of its untrodden streets was entered, not
through towered gate or guarded rampart, but as a deep
inlet between two rocks of coral in the Indian sea;
when first upon the traveller’s sight opened
the long ranges of columned palaces,—each
with its black boat moored at the portal,—each
with its image cast down, beneath its feet, upon that
green pavement which every breeze broke into new fantasies
of rich tessellation; when first, at the extremity
of the bright vista, the shadowy Rialto threw its colossal
curve slowly forth from behind the palace of the Camerlenghi;[136]
that strange curve, so delicate, so adamantine, strong
as a mountain cavern, graceful as a bow just bent;
when first, before its moonlike circumference was
all risen, the gondolier’s cry, “Ah!
Stali,"[137] struck sharp upon the ear, and the prow
turned aside under the mighty cornices that half met
over the narrow canal, where the splash of the water
followed close and loud, ringing along the marble by
the boat’s side; and when at last that boat
darted forth upon the breadth of silver sea, across
which the front of the Ducal Palace, flushed with
its sanguine veins, looks to the snowy dome of Our
Lady of Salvation,[138] it was no marvel that the
mind should be so deeply entranced by the visionary
charm of a scene so beautiful and so strange, as to
forget the darker truths of its history and its being.
Well might it seem that such a city had owed her existence
rather to the rod of the enchanter, than the fear
of the fugitive; that the waters which encircled her
had been chosen for the mirror of her state, rather
than the shelter of her nakedness; and that all which
in nature was wild or merciless,—Time and
Decay, as well as the waves and tempests,—had
been won to adorn her instead of to destroy, and might
still spare, for ages to come, that beauty which seemed
to have fixed for its throne the sands of the hour-glass
as well as of the sea.