night is dark and some of those smart puffs will soon be like little squalls.  Full and by.  Hug the land, for there are no more reefs before Scalea.  If you do not get aground on what you can see in Calabria, you will not get aground at all, says the old proverb.  Briskly over two or three miles to the next point, and the breeze is gone again.  While she is still forging ahead out go the sweeps, six or eight of them, and the men throw themselves forward over the long slender loom, as they stand.  Half an hour to row, or more perhaps.  Down helm, as you meet the next puff, and the good felucca heels over a little.  And so through the night, the breeze freshening before the rising sun to die away in the first hot morning hours, just as you are abreast of Camerota.  L’Infresco Point is ahead, not three miles away.  It is of no use to row, for the breeze will come up before long and save you the trouble.  But the sea is white and motionless.  Far in the offing a Sicilian schooner and a couple of clumsy “martinganes”—­there is no proper English name for the craft—­are lying becalmed, with hanging sails.  The men on board the felucca watch them and the sea.  There is a shadow on the white, hazy horizon, then a streak, then a broad dark blue band.  The schooner braces her top-sail yard and gets her main sheet aft.  The martinganes flatten in their jibs along their high steeving bowsprits and jib-booms.  Shift your sheets, too, now, for the wind is coming.  Past L’Infresco with its lovely harbour of refuge, lonely as a bay in a desert island, its silent shade and its ancient spring.  The wind is south by west at first, but it will go round in an hour or two, and before noon you will make Scalea—­stand out for the reef, the only one in Calabria—­with a stern breeze.  You have passed the most beautiful spot on the beautiful Italian coast, without seeing it.  There, between the island of Dino and the cape lies San Nicola, with its grand deserted tower, its mighty cliffs, its deep, safe bay and its velvet sand.  What matter?  The wind is fair and you are for Calabria with twenty tons of macaroni from Amalfi.  There is no time to be lost, either, for you will probably come home in ballast.  Past Scalea, then, where tradition says that Judas Iscariot was born and bred and did his first murder.  Right ahead is the sharp point of the Diamante, beyond that low shore where the cane brake grows to within fifty yards of the sea.  Now you have run past the little cape, and are abreast of the beach.  Down mainsail—­down jib—­down foresail.  Let go the anchor while she forges, eight to nine lengths from the land, and let her swing round, stern to the sand.  Clear away the dingy and launch her from amidships, and send a line ashore.  Overboard with everything now, for beaching, capstan, chocks and all—­the swell will wash them in.  As the keel grates on the pebbles, the men jump into the water from the high stern and catch the drifting wood.  Some plant the capstan, others pass the long hemp cable and reeve