of their pilgrims, who are very numerous, pay some
money. This solemnity appears rather a comedy
or a farce than a church-ceremony, and is very unbecoming
in a place so sacred as the holy Sepulchre. After
we had finished our service, which was about eight
in the morning, they, extinguished all their lamps
and those of the holy Sepulchre, and then they commenced
their folly, running round the holy Sepulchre, like
mad people, crying, howling, et faisans un bruit
de diables; it was charming to see them running
one after another, kicking and striking one another
with cords; many of them together held men in their
arms, and going round the holy Sepulchre, let them
fall, and then raised horrible shouts of laughter,
while they who had fallen ran after the others to avenge
themselves: it seemed that both old and young
were downright mad. From time to time they raised
their eyes, and stretched their hands, full of taper,
to heaven, crying all together eleison, as if
they were wearied at the delay of the holy fire.
This scene continued till towards three in the evening,
when two Greek archbishops and two bishops habited
as patriarchs, for the patriarch was not then at Jerusalem,
left their choir with all their clergy, and began
the procession round the holy Sepulchre: they
were joined by the Armenians, four of whom wore mitres:
then came a Coptic bishop, with all his clergy and
people. After they had walked three times round
the holy Sepulchre, a Greek priest came out of the
chapel of the Angel, which is close to that of the
holy Sepulchre, and gave notice to him who represented
the Patriarch, that the holy fire had descended from
heaven: the latter then entered into the holy
Sepulchre, followed by the representatives of the
Armenian patriarch and of the Coptic bishop.
After they had remained there a short time, we saw
the Greek archbishop in an amusing posture, bending
down his head, and bearing in each hand a quantity
of lighted tapers. No sooner had he appeared,
than all rushed one upon another to light their tapers
from those of the archbishop; as that is considered
the best fire, which is first lighted. The Janissaries
however, who were stationed near the door of the chapel
of the Angel, did not stand with their arms folded,
but made the calpacs and turbans of the Greeks fly
from one end of the church to the other, striking
around on all sides with their sticks, to make way
for the poor archbishop, who also as we may suppose
did all in his power to save himself. He then
mounted in haste a stone-altar opposite the entrance
of the holy Sepulchre, where he was immediately surrounded
by the people: those also who had lighted their
tapers endeavouring to save themselves were overwhelmed
by the others: the confusion was horrible, and
blows were not unfrequent. After the Greek archbishop
has come out, the Armenian appears, and saves himself
from the crowd in the church of the Armenians, and
the Copt in that of the Copts. Every one was