They also catch the fish in wicker baskets made from the bejucos, but most generally with atarrayas, [95] esparaveles, other small barrederas, [96] and with hand lines and hooks. [97] The most usual food of the natives is a fish as small as pejerreyes. [98] They dry and cure these fish in the sun and air, and cook them in many styles.  They like them better than large fish.  It is called laulau among them. [99]

Instead of olives and other pickled fruit, they have a green fruit, like walnuts, which they call paos. [100] Some are small, and others larger in size, and when prepared they have a pleasant taste.  They also prepare charas [101] in pickle brine, and all sorts of vegetables and greens, which are very appetizing.  There is much ginger, and it is eaten green, pickled, and preserved.  There are also quantities of cachumba [102] instead of saffron and other condiments.  The ordinary dainty throughout these islands, and in many kingdoms of the mainland of those regions, is buyo [betel].  This is made from a tree, [103] whose leaf is shaped like that of the mulberry.  The fruit resembles an oak acorn, and is white inside. [104] This fruit, which is called bonga, is cut lengthwise in strips, and each strip is put into an envelope or covering made from the leaf.  With the bonga is thrown in a powder of quick lime. [105] This compound is placed in the mouth and chewed.  It is so strong a mixture, and burns so much, that it induces sleep and intoxication.  It burns the mouths of those not used to it, and causes them to smart.  The saliva and all the mouth are made as red as blood.  It does not taste bad.  After having been chewed [106] for a considerable time it is spit out, when it no longer has any juice, which is called capa [sapa].  They consider very beneficial that quantity of the juice which has gone into the stomach, for strengthening it, and for various diseases.  It strengthens and preserves the teeth and gums from all inflammations, decay, and aches.  They tell other wonderful effects of it.  What has been seen is that the natives and Spaniards—­laymen and religious, men and women—­use it so commonly and generally that mornings and afternoons, at parties and visits, and even alone in their houses, all their refreshments and luxuries consist of buyos served on heavily-gilded and handsomely adorned plates and trays like chocolate in Nueva Espana.  In these poison has been often administered from which the persons eating them have died, and that quite commonly.

The natives (especially the chiefs) take whenever they leave their houses, for show and entertainment, their boxes of buyos—­which they call buccetas [107]—­ready to use, and the leaf, bonga, and quick lime, separately.  With these handsome boxes, which are made of metal and of other materials, they carry the scissors and other tools for making the buyo with cleanliness and neatness.  Wherever they may stop, they make and use their buyo.  In the parians, or bazars, buyos are sold ready made, and the outfit for making them. [108]