This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple wool, so that the raised ribs appear black on one side and purple on the other.  The bodice fits quite close.  It is fastened in front with black bone buttons and a steel buckle.  Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at the bottom.  Begin at the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast on 170 stitches.  The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not too loose.  Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:—­Slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were going to purl it, and knit 1.  In the next row knit together the stitch which has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward, slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool forward.  In the 25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as before.

[Illustration:  324.—­Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Back).]

[Illustration:  325.—­Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Front).]

Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with purple, but as the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be alternately knitted and purled.  Work always 2 rows on the same side from right to left.  The following 26th row is worked with black wool in common brioche stitch, only the slipped stitch of the preceding row is purled together with the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. 27th row:  Turn the work, with purple wool purled brioche stitch. 28th row:  On the same side with black wool knitted brioche stitch.  After having worked 40 rows all in the same manner, begin the front gore.  Divide the stitches upon three needles, 82 stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for each front part on the two other needles.  Then work the first 11 stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that side of the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted brioche stitch; the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with the wool thrown forward, therefore it is a purple rib.  After this stitch begin the gore with the following 13 stitches.  The ribs are then worked so that a purple one comes over a black one, and a black one over a purple one.  Do not work upon the following black stitch; knit the following stitch with the one formed by throwing the wool forward.  Throw the wool forward, and then only slip the black stitch which had been left, so that it comes behind the stitch which has just been knitted.  This crossing of the stitch is repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together with the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single black stitches.  The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are then knitted together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in opposite directions.  The three black stitches which are knitted off together as 1 stitch in the next row form the middle line of the