in the middle stitch of every scallop, 5 chain between, then 1 row of slip stitches, and finally a row of purl stitches like the 1st row of the insertion.  For the raised flowers, which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make a foundation chain of 10 stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from illustration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the 1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of the 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1 long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches under them, 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *.  Each following row consists of 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop of the preceding row, 9 chain between.  Then work the 1st row of the border on the other side of the insertion; 1 double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times more from *, and the flower is completed.

[Illustration:  284.—­Crochet Insertion.]

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285.—­Crochet Garter.

Materials:  Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round white elastic cord; a pearl button.

This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord; the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread.

[Illustration:  285.—­Crochet Garter.]

Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool; take the elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work over it.  Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completed in the course of the two first rounds; the button-hole is made at the beginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 stitches, and, when you come to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain.  Increase the number of stitches at either end of the garter, to round it off.  When the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then a plain red one.  The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately 1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first, missing 1 stitch under the 1 purl.  Sew on a pearl button to correspond with the button-hole.  The garter would be both more elegant and more elastic if worked entirely in silk.

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286.—­Crochet Trimming for a Lady’s Chemise.

Materials:  Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.’s crochet cotton, and a needle to match.